Lilli Ann: 1955 Jacket, a Closer Look at the Diamond Details

This Lilli Ann label diamond design is a show piece of geometric drama.

Lilli Ann, 1949 Jacket: A Closer Look at Details and Dates in a 1940's jacket

Lilli Ann suit designs from the 1940's have a distinctly different silhouette from the suits produced in the 1950's.

Lilli Ann: Mauve Jacket with Fur Trim, 1958

This Lilli Ann suit jacket dates from 1958. It's signature fur trimmed bodice drape can be found on several jackets from that era. This one is a soft wool crepe in a pastel mauve color. Dyed to match silver fox fur trims a diagonal drape that crossed the jacket hem with a pearl button detail.

I have a few detail photos to share that fill in any gaps that the general full view misses. What is always interesting about a good Lilli Ann suit jacket are the signature details, going beyond what most jackets of the era show. These jackets tend to appeal to a flamboyant, dramatic and self confidant customer who loves feminine and sexy details to her outfits.

Rather than a simple strip of fabric, the wool has been pleated from a wider shoulder down to a narrow hanging "scarf" with a "pom pom" of fur at the end. A narrow band, like a belted edge, encircles the jacket hem. Where the scarf crosses that band it has an overlapping piece that is fastened with a pearl button in a bound buttonhole.

The swag is accented by the diagonal hemline at high hip level. This diagonal hem continues around the back, creating a well integrated design from all angles that is flattering to many body types.  This diagonal is seen in several other Lilli Ann jackets, so it must have been a popular silhouette for that label.

How this jacket was accessorized can be seen in the original magazine advertisement from 1958.

The 3/4 sleeves are designed to be worn with a longer glove proportion. The original skirt was narrow and below knee length, and worn with simple heels. Small pearl earings complete the ensemble, a scale that enhances but does not overpower the pearl button accent at the left hip.

In the early 1960's we can find advertisements for for similar styles from Lilli Ann. Like those shown here, this jacket was probably designed as a cocktail suit, to be worn to formal luncheons or semi-formal evening events where pearls and fur were appropriate. The soft pastel color would be a spring look. The label photo shows the texture of the wool crepe and the type of lining typical for a Lilli Ann jacket.

PS, I have more on this Lilli Ann style in the following other blog posts:

Lilli Ann: Vintage Suits from the 1950's and early 1960's: more advertisements showing suit jackets

Lilli Ann: 1950's Jackets that Inspire: more information on this jacket

Pinterest: Follow my board "Lilli Ann of San Francisco" --an ongoing collection of dated advertisements and other Lilli Ann designs for collectors and anyone who loves this label.

Lilli Ann: Diamond Applique Jacket, c. 1955

The Lilli Ann label carries with it an aura of mid-century feminine mystic. While photos of jackets with that label are easy to find, close up details are not often shown. This example is a well fitted short body suit jacket in a silhouette that was popular during the early and mid-1950's. I have seen similar styles with the Lilli Ann label that used the same shades of wool, so it is probably part of a suit collection that was created in the same fabric.

I wanted to share the details of this jacket, showing how the diamond appliques are applied around the hemline and at the lapel of the collar in a unique extension beyond the edge.

This front view shows placement of the diamond details, with some closer views below:

The diamonds were appliqued onto the jacket body after the darts were sewn, covering up those seam lines. The edges are held in place with zig-zag stitching.

This diamond motif is carried across the back hem as well, rather than it being just a front view element.

Finishing the details are self bound buttonholes and covered buttons (rather than rhinestones) and turn back cuffs. While these details are common for the period, the textiles used and subtle fabric arrangement lend an air of quality in the mono-chromatic color scheme of the jacket, relying on graphic design rather than shiny textiles, bright color or bling to complete the jacket's details.

P.S You can find out more about this jacket and Lilli Ann in these other blog posts

1950's Jackets that Inspire: a short intro to this jacket and how I got it.

Vintage Suits from the 1950's and early 1960's: more great suit jackets and advertisements

Lilli Ann of San Francisco: follow my Pinterest board on this label where I include dates and descriptions for the collector or enthusiast.