Monday, November 10, 2014
Lilli Ann: Diamond Applique Jacket, c. 1955
The Lilli Ann label carries with it an aura of mid-century feminine mystic. While photos of jackets with that label are easy to find, close up details are not often shown. This example is a well fitted short body suit jacket in a silhouette that was popular during the early and mid-1950's. I have seen similar styles with the Lilli Ann label that used the same shades of wool, so it is probably part of a suit collection that was created in the same fabric.
I wanted to share the details of this jacket, showing how the diamond appliques are applied around the hemline and at the lapel of the collar in a unique extension beyond the edge.
This front view shows placement of the diamond details, with some closer views below:
The diamonds were appliqued onto the jacket body after the darts were sewn, covering up those seam lines. The edges are held in place with zig-zag stitching.
This diamond motif is carried across the back hem as well, rather than it being just a front view element.
Finishing the details are self bound buttonholes and covered buttons (rather than rhinestones) and turn back cuffs. While these details are common for the period, the textiles used and subtle fabric arrangement lend an air of quality in the mono-chromatic color scheme of the jacket, relying on graphic design rather than shiny textiles, bright color or bling to complete the jacket's details.
P.S You can find out more about this jacket and Lilli Ann in these other blog posts
1950's Jackets that Inspire: a short intro to this jacket and how I got it.
Vintage Suits from the 1950's and early 1960's: more great suit jackets and advertisements
Lilli Ann of San Francisco: follow my Pinterest board on this label where I include dates and descriptions for the collector or enthusiast.