Lilli Ann: Diamond Applique Jacket, c. 1955

The Lilli Ann label carries with it an aura of mid-century feminine mystic. While photos of jackets with that label are easy to find, close up details are not often shown. This example is a well fitted short body suit jacket in a silhouette that was popular during the early and mid-1950's. I have seen similar styles with the Lilli Ann label that used the same shades of wool, so it is probably part of a suit collection that was created in the same fabric.

I wanted to share the details of this jacket, showing how the diamond appliques are applied around the hemline and at the lapel of the collar in a unique extension beyond the edge.

This front view shows placement of the diamond details, with some closer views below:

The diamonds were appliqued onto the jacket body after the darts were sewn, covering up those seam lines. The edges are held in place with zig-zag stitching.

This diamond motif is carried across the back hem as well, rather than it being just a front view element.

Finishing the details are self bound buttonholes and covered buttons (rather than rhinestones) and turn back cuffs. While these details are common for the period, the textiles used and subtle fabric arrangement lend an air of quality in the mono-chromatic color scheme of the jacket, relying on graphic design rather than shiny textiles, bright color or bling to complete the jacket's details.

P.S You can find out more about this jacket and Lilli Ann in these other blog posts

1950's Jackets that Inspire: a short intro to this jacket and how I got it.

Vintage Suits from the 1950's and early 1960's: more great suit jackets and advertisements

Lilli Ann of San Francisco: follow my Pinterest board on this label where I include dates and descriptions for the collector or enthusiast.

Lilli Ann: 1950's Jackets that Inspire

If the Lilli Ann company during the 1940's and 1950's is known for anything, it is their fearless use of eye popping details and dramatic flare for contrasting trims. These two lovely wool jackets from the 1950's are examples of how far jacket design can go.

The lavander wool crepe jacket has a swag of drapery that falls to a pom-pom of fur at the end! This is accentuated by a diagonal hemline around the jacket. It appears to move on it's own with the swing and swirl of this design. The drape with fur trim seems to be a popular Lilli Ann trim, and it can be found in other jackets as well.

The second slide shows an early tailored silhouette that is spiked with diamond shaped appliques of the same wool in various shades. These are zig-zagged onto the jacket, around the hips and at the collar points. In fact, the collar diamonds overlap into 'space' and aren't entirely bonded to the jacket structure. This style is part of a line, having seen one go up on Ebay recently, I know that the diamond appliques were used in more than one style.

Plain tailored jackets from today might take note of these two looks. Wouldn't it be fun to re-style a jacket with diamond appliques? Or a swag? Don't let plain jackets fool you, there is a wealth of possibilities, if only someone would try!

(To get a closer look, click on the image)

NOTE:
Both garments were found at Etsy in forward thinking shops who recongnized the glory of a Lilli Ann jacket, even though it might be spiked with moth holes to the point that it can't be worn. Keeping them for study and inspiration is a perfect way to use such unwearables.

top photo: lavander wool crepe with fur trim and rhinestone button, c. 1955, from Fabgabs on Etsy.com
second photo: tan wool with diamond applique trim, c. 1950, from Vintagekttn on Etsy.com

Lilli Ann: Vintage Suits from the 1950's & early 1960's

Two examples of Lilli Ann suits, showing the span of a decade: 1950 to 1960.


The well tailored suit jacket became an important element for Lilli Ann designs between the late 1940's and early 1960's. During this decade, the overall silhouette was not be altered significantly, but details were many and varied considerably. Jackets showed a smooth fit in the torso, with long narrow or 3/4 length sleeves. The hip was fitted and hems were short or long. In general, the suit skirt remained narrow and unadorned.

The brown wool suit pictured above from the early 1950's has a mock bolero with self bow tie. The face is framed by a wing collar. Bolero shaping sets off the small hourglass waistline which is emphasized even more by a single button.

In this creamy aqua crepe suit from about 1960, a variation in small pleating is used to frame the face with drama. The use of an asymmetrical front is seen. Lilli Ann would use this popular design devise often during this era.

A Lilli Ann advertisement from early 1960 shows several versions of suits from the collection of that year. Continuing the trend that Dior began over a decade earlier, jackets appear to be derived from a basic fitted New Look silhouette. The body is then altered with many styles of collar and neckline drapery. Overall, the look is very feminine and dignified, spiced with details in texture and trim.

Following this collection in 1960, the design of Lilli Ann makes a notable swing towards more current fashion trends of the day. This was a move to showcase a younger, exciting and innovative look to the Lilli Ann customer. An updated silhouette left behind the New Look styles that Lilli Ann had promoted for more than a decade.

This article is third in a series on Lilli Ann fashions.
Earlier articles may be found in the links to the right.


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