Wednesday, March 14, 2012

Retro Style Shoes: 1940's Sandals for Summer


If you are looking for the perfect 1940's and 50's summer wedgie sandal, then look no further. Hand made in Mexico, these tooled leather wedgies are super cute and comfortable enough to wear all summer. They are available in several colors, from red through natural, black and brown. If you are on the west coast, you may have an easier time finding a pair, but online there are several websites that carry this fabulous sandal.




Red shoes shown are from HERE

Natural shoes are from HERE

If you are in Los Angeles, visit Olvera Street to find them HERE among the stalls down the center of the street. I found mine in a stall with many other styles of sandals.

Monday, March 12, 2012

Lilli Ann: Purple Suit, Illustration from late 1940's



Post WWII, Late 1940's, "Lilli Ann" label vintage fashion advertisement, showing the peplum jacket and dramatic silhouette that the San Francisco company was famous for.

Saturday, March 10, 2012

Lilli Ann suit: Fashion Illustration from 1947 Advertisement

vintage 40s Lilli Ann advertisement illustration

A Lilli Ann suit fashion illustration advertisement from 1947 .  This is one of a few illustrations for Lilli Ann that was launched after World War II.  It was short term, apparently the brand favored fashion photos.
Don't you just love the sophistication?
Were women really this romantic and men that dashing?


Mad Men: 1960's Fashion Trends for Season 5


This season's "Mad Men" episodes should continue moving forward into the later half of the 1960's. We can expect to see a more diverse styles in that era. Probably the most consistent looks will be prints and color. It's hard to imagine this era without bold pattern or color.

The first dress shown here has "the look": a Mod style "A" line shift in classic houndstooth pattern, it has a bow accent with low peter pan collar that would have seemed very British is style to an American customer. This look would appeal to a junior shopper who was looking for a bold fashion statement.


This dress is a more sophisticated silk chiffon style. It would have been custom ordered from I.Magnin's on the west coast. The sleeves are sheer with jeweled cuffs and collar (which were so popular then).

The shifts below follow the trend with abstract prints on a smooth shift silhouette. Worn by all age groups, the shift would be the most common look during that era. The changing scene would create a rising look in hemlines, moving up to finger tip length by 1969.






Pucci-style bold patterns dominated both junior and women's apparel. Here copies of the iconic look are seen in bright, dramatic color designs.



Both dresses have engineered prints which were custom made to be cut and sewn into dresses with balanced patterns and borders. Both are also jersey knits, which were becoming wildly popular. This type of long dress would be increasingly popular for casual wear. Worn at parties, picnics and proms, the longer length was brought on to the scene by the hippie styles seen in San Francisco and elsewhere worn by the youth movement.


For the more mature or conservative woman who still wanted to emphasize her waistline, there were still styles with fitted bodices. Although this silhouette might seem dated, the fabric design would be strictly late 60's with bold pattern and bright florals.

The longer dress in chiffon might have been worn during an afternoon party, barbeque or wedding. It has a trailing scarf that floats from the left shoulder. The short blue floral print dress was custom ordered from I.Magnin's which catered to a wealthy customer who wanted top quality textiles but often with a more conservative look.


At a career and professional level, the shirt dress assumed the required shift silhouette, but it might be belted by the woman who wore it. A younger customer would have worn it without a belt, but snug around the hipline.


The three shirt dresses here all have bold patterned fabric, in keeping with the era. The top dress is a mock plaid with floral overlay. These 'happy flowers' would be a dominate pattern, seen all over the fashion scene.

The middle dress by Lanvin, uses that logo on the textile in an engineered print to create the contrast hem detail.



The final dress is clearly influenced by abstract art. All dresses are synthetic fiber. Many are polyester. This 'miracle' textile would be 'wash and wear', releasing women from ironing chores that could have taken one day each week to perform.


Now it's time to decide who will wear what. Will aging characters like Joan and Betty opt out for the latter fashions here, or go forward with current trends? At that time, married women were expected to assume a certain level of decorum, especially if they were over 21.

And what about Peggy? Her fashion sense has never been spot-on, so she can probably be expected to keep her career wear conservative and slightly outdated. But in her free time she might swing over into the more ethnic and experimental looks of the youth movement. Will she choose batik Indian print wrap skirts with peasant tops?

Megan was last seen in current mod silhouettes, so being one of the younger women she should continue to be fashion current. Will her marriage affect that youthful look? Will she try to assume a more mature style, or stay on trend?

As for Trudie, she has leaned toward a feminine junior silhouette. Her ongoing style has been to wear quality textiles with very modern silhouettes in girly prints and colors. Will that keep up as she stays at home?

What's your take in predicting what we'll be seeing?

Thursday, March 8, 2012

How A Victorian Bustle was Draped: 1970's Fashion Plates

bustle drape, how to sew Victorian dress1879 bustle dress
1870's bustle dress

These illustrations are from a women's magazine dated July, 1879 called "Peterson's Ladies National Magazine". Within the pages are everything a home maker could want. This includes a clear illustration showing the mechanics of the then current bustle drapery. That month the magazine featured a bustle with a two panel draped front, and a bustle train in the back. All of this would be fastened at the waistline, and covered with the longer basque bodice 'jacket'.

The bustle draft shown here takes alot of the mystery out of bustle arranging, showing how it is really just a puffy apron worn over the underskirt. It's kind of amazing to think that this might be all a woman might have had as reference in making her own fashionable costume. Ideally she got some help, and was able to copy an existing bustle that her cousin had tailor made in Boston, rather than reinventing the wheel on her own!

What you aren't seeing here is that most successful bustles where draped on the bias, so that those front corner 'points' are probably right angles where the selvage and cross grain meet. The bustle pleating was similar to bunting, ruching up the fabric to create the necessary drapery.

Wednesday, March 7, 2012

De De Johnson, California Fashion Designer: Patio Prints from the 1950's

De De Johnson, 1950s yellow outfit

With a growing popularity in outdoor living, California designers during the 1940's and 1950's developed a fashion niche to meet the needs of that lifestyle.  Easy to wear separates were very popular with innovative shorts and skirts as part of these looks.  Designer De De Johnson created outfits perfectly suited to the outdoors life style of California women.  This fresh yellow outfit has a whimsical patio print for visual interest, making it perfect for entertaining and resort.

DeDe Johnson


DeDe Johnson


The shirt and shorts set shown below is by Joseph Zukin of California.  This set is a rayon blend from 1945. The print shows an ariel view of New York city with a balloon motif that is accented by little red ball buttons that repeat the balloon shapes in a novel way.  This set shows the popular look of matching both top and bottom to create a 'romper' or one-piece shorts look with an easier fit.

Joseph Zukin desginer, women's resort California designer

Joseph Zukin



Both outfits were on display at California Design: 1930-1965 in June 2012 at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.

Tuesday, March 6, 2012

1920s Art Deco Flapper Coats: How to Dress Like a Flapper


During the 1920's, women's lives changed for ever. This was the "Roaring Twenties" and Flappers were sporting easy to wear silhouettes: loose, short, ready to take a spirited run through the park.

If you want to look like a flapper, then owning a great coat should be part of the vintage wardrobe. When dressing liker a Flapper look, key to a fun outfit is the wrap front coat and a fur collar, worn with a low cloche hat pulled down to the eyebrows.



Following World War I, everything about the Flapper's style was new and modern, breaking ground in so many ways. She was usually young: a college student or new girl in town. Her silhouette seemed shockingly masculine, with long bare legs and a slender bustline.

The idea of having men's wear styled clothing was new on the horizon. This loose fit, expressed with modern Art Deco designs brought a younger viewpoint to fashion. Erte, the famous fashion illustrator suggested many applications of Art Deco embellishments in fabric and fashion.

Fabric prints, jewelry, shoe details and hats were distinctive in their Erte-styled Deco designs.
Flapper style vintage coat from 1920s
This Art Deco Flapper coat is amazing. Over 90 years old, it still sparks with style and attitude. Erte inspired Art Deco designs are sewn on the sleeves and coat back, giving it that distinctive Flapper quality. The fabric is a rich, black mohair plush.

Not to be missed, the classic fur collar and cuffs, with a wrap front that ties at the hip.









The coat catalog here shows a very similar coat style on its cover.

p.s. The name "Flapper" is derived from the big rain boots popular during the time, that were worn un-buckled in front, making a flapping effect when the girls walked in them.

















Reposted from an earlier post; Oct. 21, 2008, with new images added of the coat.

Monday, March 5, 2012

Sewing Tips for Retro Patterns: Butterick 5748 and Butterick 5747

how to sew retro patterns
What we have here are tow popular "Retro" Butterick patterns: 5747 and 5748 with some tips for sewing these vintage style patterns.

The first pattern, Butterick 5747, is from 1960, and has it comes with two great skirt options. We love the wide shawl collar with notches. This pattern should be easy to sew. It has only 4 main pattern pieces: bodice (front and back) and skirt (front and back). The simple bodice is darted for fit, and doesn't have set in sleeves. Either skirt is basic, and both styles button down the center front.


This second pattern, Butterick 5748, is also dated 1960. A "Retro" pattern  with a classic fit bodice with circle skirt. Nothing complicated about it, and there are so many ways this style can go. In the meantime, there's no reason why a narrow fit straight skirt couldn't replace that circle skirt that comes with the pattern, if that is what you want (or a simple gathered skirt as well).

My blog post on FLAT LINING could come in handy when sewing these styles, since either dress would look great with flat lining.

I have another blog post on ”S” DARTS AND FLAT LINING that looks into flat lining in detail, and shows a technique for making well fit bodice darts. The demo dresses are similar to the #5748 dress pattern.

I think you'll find these dresses a good addition to your sewing stock. I look forward to trying these out soon myself!


Thursday, March 1, 2012

1920s Flapper Dresses: 18 Flapper styles to help you Dress Like a Flapper





Here are 18 fabulous 1920's flapper styles to help you dress like a flapper.  These 1920 vintage dresses show details that have been well developed during the decade. At this time the low waistline has sophisticated draping, and the long torso is embellished with trims to create unique and dramatic designs.

These illustrations are from a vintage pattern magazine called "Fashionable Dress" from August 1929. The dresses here are mid-summer styles with flippy hemlines, neckline details and low hip sashes.

To make your own, try using cottons, chiffons and other light textiles. The prints tend to be small, with many "Art Deco" designs.

This illustrations also help to show hairstyles, hats, jewelry and accessories that were popular at that time.

Both by Maggy Rouff of Paris
Left- Yellow bodice with brown lace skirt. Brown velvet jacket with ruffled edges
Right-Printed chiffon with fine tucking at hip


Right- Moyneux of Paris, pleated tiers on the skirt, with pleated cap sleeves
Other designs by LeComte of Paris
Left, white crepe dress with red velvet coat
Second- red and white checked crepe, with bias trims
Third- white crepe with lavender checks and black banding




This last set was illustrated to show current trends in textile prints, and is shown on mature women to give examples of styles suitable for an older figure.