Lillian Montaldo: Early Fashion Entrepreneur

The "Montaldo" label originates from a fabulous chain of high fashion stores that were owned and managed by an early pioneer in fashion retail, Lillian Montaldo. In 1918 she opened her first fashion store in Kansas. Lillian would continue to open more shops in cities through out the south, mid-west and even in Colorado during her long career in retail. Her stores were popular for high end designer fashions that came from New York and were also sold in stores along 5th Avenue.

Known for their luxury, Montaldo's attracted women who wanted to wear the best. Even the interior design of the shops was styled with luxury and presented a French allure.

During her career, Lillian worked from New York to procure the latest fashions for her shops. Her concept of a high fashion chain of retail stores was an early venture into ready to wear fashion in the U.S. She is also unique in that the fashion business was still a 'man's world' at the time she began her career.

Lillian was honored for her achievements in fashion in the late 1960's. Her 'empire' would last until the 1990's, more than 70 years of success.

The "Montaldos" label satin dress shown here was probably sold in the very late 1940's or early 1950's during the "New Look" trend. The gown has heavy embellishment of sequins and chenille on the bodice and a long flared box pleated skirt that falls to below knee level. It has a traditional side zipper of metal. The house label is sewn into the bodice lining.

More photos of this gown are shown at Pintuck Style, my shop on Etsy.

Other resources on Montaldo's: Lillian Montaldo is profiled by Betsy L. Hendrix

Advertisement from 1923: HERE

Adrian: Gowns and Salons, 1948

Announcement by fashion designer Gilbert Adrian, made in the Spring of 1948:

Sometimes dreams come true. For years I have wanted to show my complete collection in New York as I show it in California. At last it is possible. It is with great pleasure and pride that I announce the opening of the Adrian Room at Gunther in New York.

Here, for the first time, you may always see a complete collection, for we have arranged that all models be kept permanently in stock throughout each season.

Gunther will be the only shop in New York showing my clothes. Please consider this a personal invitation to see them there.


This gorgeous taffeta gown advertises the genius of Adrian, whose designs were well known by the fashion world of his day. As a primary American designer of his generation, it seems astonishing that he would have to wait until 1948 to have a year-round salon venue for his collection in New York. Only the previous spring, he had shown his collection in the St. Regis Hotel. In his early 40's, he had already established a Los Angeles salon and a $2 million business before launching this new salon at the center of the American fashion world.

Schiaparelli Bustle Gown

This unusual gown by Schiaparelli was designed in 1947 and shows how she draped to create drama and new silhouettes. The hem of this silk gown is shorter in front where the bodice is shirred across the waistline. In the back the hem lengthens, complimenting the puffed bustle-like bow which accents the "V" neckline.

from:
Doyle, New York: Couture and Textiles. Tuesday, November 10, 1998

Lilli Ann: Purple Suit, Illustration from late 1940's

Post WWII, Late 1940's, "Lilli Ann" label vintage fashion advertisement, showing the peplum jacket and dramatic silhouette that the San Francisco company was famous for.

Fashion Illustration by Berard, c. 1940's gown by Lelong

"Berard" is the signature for Parisian illustrator, Christian Berard (Bebe), who specialized in a romantic, baroque illustration style. Originally he designed costumes and theater settings, later on he would be recruited by the big fashion magazines for his illustrations. Berard would eventually illustrate for both "Vogue" and "Harper's Bazaar" during the 1930's and 40's.

Berard studied painting with Vuillard when young and his brush style evokes the sensitive ink line of Japanese brush work. His signature style has a simple almost abstract qualities. He also explored the bright color contrasts often associated with the war years, such as acid green and plum or gold and dark green. Born in 1902, he died young at age 47 in 1949.