Showing posts with label dress patterns. Show all posts
Showing posts with label dress patterns. Show all posts

Thursday, February 26, 2015

9 Best Dress Patterns for Beginners: Easy to Sew


This is the first is a short series on sewing patterns that are EASY to sew or EASY for new sewists (beginners). Because these styles tend to be shift dresses (loose with bust darts) or "A" line in shape, they are perfect for summer. This is the season to best sew for warm weather, the timing is right to make one of these styles.



This post is the first of a series on easy to sew dresses that I first published three years ago.  As one of my most popular series, it has always generated alot of interest.  Many of those patterns are no longer available, so I thought it was a good time to re-post the original article with new and current patterns from the 'big 4' companies.  If you have a good pattern to recommend, just leave your comment below.

The shift dresses pictured above have an "A" line or loose fit, while the sheath dresses pictured below tend to fit the waistline more closely, and can be smooth over the hips.  The sheath dresses all show back darts to trim out excess fabric in the back waistline area.  Often this style has a back zipper, but the looser "A" line shifts can usually be sewn without a zipper for a 'pull over' style.

Both types of dresses shown here have bust darts in the side seam lines.  This dart creates a smooth fit in the underarm and reduces bulk in the side seam area.



What I look for when choosing an easy pattern are several elements that need to come together:

1) seam lines: few seam lines to sew - just the side seams please!

2) pattern pieces: two main pattern pieces - front and back

3) darts: few darts - bust darts are fine

4) zipper: nope!

5) sleeves: nada!

6) neckline: simple and round, I think facing is easier than bias edge, but that's me

7) hemline: machine sewn? yes please

8) fabric: smooth, medium weight cottons: these are easiest to sew - quilter's cottons, cotton gingham checks, cotton shirting plaids and stripes.

Here's a few patterns that would be EASY for a newbie, or FAST for those with experience.

Easy Palmer Pletch McCalls 6355
McCall's 6355: basic shift pattern by Palmer/Pletch, neck binding, optional fitting darts. This pattern has options for creating a good fit.

easy to sew McCalls 6102
McCalls 6102: View D, shift style, 2 bust darts, pull over, large size range, neckline facing


easy to sew McCalls 6465
McCall's 6465: view E, slip over, sleeveless bias tape arm holes, loose A line shape

FINDING YOUR SIZE:

READ the measurement section for the company that you are buying the pattern from.  Each one will require the following: Bust, Waist, Hip.  Be sure to measure without clothing for accuracy.  If you are not the same size as the patterns listed, for this style of dress, choose your bustline to find the best size.  You can add to the hip area if you need more room there, and the waistline measurement should have little effect on the pattern.

HOW WILL THE DRESS FIT?  If you scroll down or click the tab on most pattern websites, you will find the GARMENT MEASUREMENTS. This information lists what a dress will measure after it has been sewn.  These measurements can be compared with a similar dress or top you own, so that way you'll know what the results will be. Use this to select hem width, hip and bustline ease (the term 'ease' means looseness). It is a great way to find your pattern size for that specific dress, if you feel the size measurements may not be exactly your fit.


(the original version of this article was published February 17, 2015)

Friday, February 24, 2012

Dress Patterns for Beginners: Easy to Fit and Sew

McCall's 3129 This is the third part in a series on easy to sew dress patterns. This post looks at a princess pattern that can be easily fit using gingham. The second pattern has mock sleeves for a fast and easy to sew dress style.

In locating dress patterns for curvey fit or larger sizes, McCall's 3129 shown above is a princess dress style that has a great 'fit and flare' silhouette. It skims the upper body, then flares out. If you want a short sleeves, you can have that too.

Don't let the fact that this dress style has four main pattern pieces (front, side front, back, side back) stop you. Once you machine baste those pieces together, have a fitting and you will notice how nicely the final fit can be achieved.

Fitting sample? If you really want to know: Woven, cotton gingham check is the preferred fabric to use when making a fitting sample. It is the easiest way to see if the grain line falls straight, that horizontals aren't crooked and that your pattern pieces are balanced.

Fitting? Make it easy by adding to the dress pattern seam allowances at the side and back seam lines to equal 1" (+ 3/8"). That way you can play with the extra fabric if you need it. Once you get a good fit, go back and make marks on your paper pattern that match your new seamlines. This way your paper pattern can be used again.

Fabric fitting pattern:
step 1: Add to pattern seam allowances so that side and back seams = 1" wide.
step 2: Use gingham for the fitting garment.
step 3: Cut only the dress, don't include facings or zipper.
step 4: Machine baste in the largest machine stitch using contrast color thread.
step 5: Wearing best bra and shoes, have a friend make the alterations. They can see the back, you can't.
step 6: After alterations are complete, remove dress and use pencil to mark the stitch line or pin line. Add horizontal marks on both sides of the seam line, so you know where to match up the pieces when you sew them together again.
step 7: Transfer the alterations back onto your paper pattern and add a new 5/8" seam allowance.
You could press your fabric pattern and use that. If you plan to do this, be sure fabric has been pre-shrunk. Also take care not to pull this fabric pattern off grain. Usually it's easiest to trace a new pattern from the fabric fitting pieces and add back the 5/8" seam allowances.
Butterick 5211Looking for something easier to fit and sew? With only two main pattern pieces (front and back), Butterick 5211 is easy to lay out, cut and sew. It is a nice summer look with a mock sleeves. This is a tunic dress that can be belted too. The extended shoulder make the sleeve look a breeze to sew (it's just a wider shoulder seam line). There is a 'key hole' slit in back, rather than a zipper. A zipper could be added instead.

When choosing your fabric, both of these dresses will make up in simple woven summer fabrics very easily. The princess seam line style should have patterns of moderate size or smaller, so that the pieces don't cut up the print. The tunic dress would be great for larger, graphic or abstract prints.

I hope this series has helped you find the dress pattern that best combines your sewing ability and figure type. With the right combination, sewing a dress can be easy to do!

Here are a few more blog posts that also talk about sewing dresses:

7 Best Sheath Dress Patterns with Vintage Style: Easy to Sew

9 Best Dress Patterns for Beginners: Easy to Sew

6 Easy to Sew Shift Dresses

If you liked this blog post, follow me on Bloglovin to keep up with my most current articles,

You can also find me on:
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Pinterest - Pintuckstyle
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Twitter - Pintucks

Friday, February 17, 2012

Dress Patterns for Beginners: EASY to SEW

easy to sew McCalls 6117This is the first is a short series on sewing patterns that are EASY to sew or EASY for new sewists (beginners). Because these styles tend to be shift dresses (loose with bust darts) or "A" line in shape, they are perfect for summer. This is the season to best sew for warm weather, the timing is right to make one of these styles.

Since I wrote this post, several patterns have been discontinued, I have an updated version of this same post titled: 9 Best Dress Patterns for Beginners, so you may want to click on this link to find more recent patterns.

What I look for when choosing an easy pattern are several elements that need to come together:

1) seam lines: few seam lines to sew - just the side seams please!

2) pattern pieces: two main pattern pieces - front and back

3) darts: few darts - bust darts are fine

4) zipper: nope!

5) sleeves: nada!

6) neckline: simple and round, I think facing is easier than bias edge, but that's me

7) hemline: machine sewn? yes please

8) fabric: smooth, medium weight cottons: these are easiest to sew - quilter's cottons, cotton gingham checks, cotton shirting plaids and stripes.

Here's a few patterns that would be EASY for a newbie, or FAST for those with experience.

Top View, McCalls 6117 (now discontinued) illustrated the type of pattern to look for with 2 side seam bust darts and a soft "A" line fit.

easy to sew dress
McCall's 9172 (also discontinues) shows a sleeveless style with optional dart or no dart, ‘relaxed fit’, neckline facing.  This does not have a zipper, and is an easy "pull over" style to sew.

Easy Palmer Pletch McCalls 6355
McCall's 6355 (available) is a basic shift pattern by Palmer/Pletch with neck binding and optional fitting darts. This pattern has suggestions for creating a good fit.

easy to sew McCalls 6102
McCalls 6102 (available): View D is a shift style with 2 bust darts.  It is a zipperless pull over style that comes in a wide size range.


easy to sew McCalls 6465
McCall's 6465 (available): view E is also without zipper, a slip over style that is also sleeveless with bias tape around arm holes.

When looking at a pattern page online, look for the front and back views or line drawings (production flats) of the garment showing each seam line clearly. Fabric and notions should also be listed.

If you scroll down further on most websites, you will find the GARMENT MEASUREMENTS. This information can be compared with a similar garment you own and fit, so you know what the results will be. Use this to select hem width, hip and bustline ease (looseness). It is a great way to determine your pattern size, if you feel the size measurements may not be exactly your fit.

Here are a few blog posts that also talk about sewing dresses:

7 Best Sheath Dress Patterns with Vintage Style: Easy to Sew

9 Best Dress Patterns for Beginners: Easy to Sew

6 Easy to Sew Shift Dresses

If you liked this blog post, follow me on Bloglovin to keep up with my most current articles,

You can also find me on:
Facebook - Pintucks
Pinterest - Pintuckstyle
Instagram - Pintuckstyle
Twitter - Pintucks