NY Public Library: Fashion in the Files

Here is a fashion design from 1939 that includes both front, back and schematic views. You can find more like this in the New York Public Library digital gallery collection. Just enter your search terms. "Costume", "fashion", "sewing" are some good terms to try out. If you use an image, be sure to credit the collection. When it comes to eras, the entire 20th century is often a single category (rather than by each decade).

In this collection you will find more fashion designs like this, book illustrations, and photos. The Andre fashion illustration collection from the 1930's and 40's is a great style resource for that era. The designs include coats, suits and dresses by the Andre Fashion Studios. Most are from the 1930's. This is a huge collection of 5,415 images (so plan to fall down the rabbit hole with this link!).

Paris Buttonholes the Mode: 1930's

This fashion magazine page from the early 1930's plays up some great ways to use buttons. The slinky, slender silhouette of that era looks great with the sleeve variations shown here, some sporting button accents. Neckline and shoulder yokes, sleeve cuffs, pockets and shoulder straps have buttons as well.

Part of what makes the look so elegant is the accessories. Their gauntlet gloves really have great style. And it would be hard to miss those jaunty little hats worn at an angle over the forehead with a bit of finger waved hairstyle peeking below.

President's Day: RBW fashion illustration, late 1930's

This RBW (Count Rene Bouet-Willaumez) illustration from the late 1930's or 1940's has a patriotic flair. As an illustrator, he employed color washed emphasized with brush strokes to show the figure and fabric.

The suit and dress shown are detailed with patch pockets that sport fold over top flaps with buttons. The suit coat has a fun back pocket that plays up the back interest seen in fashion during the late 1930's. The shoulders are broad, with sharp emphasis at the sleeve top. This was probably before the US went to war, since there seems to be excess fabric folds and a longer skirt length, and those would be restricted during the war years.

Of special interest are the hats worn on the top or back of the head, they provide a fun and amusing detail to the overall outfit.

Fashion Illustration by Berard, c. 1940's gown by Lelong

"Berard" is the signature for Parisian illustrator, Christian Berard (Bebe), who specialized in a romantic, baroque illustration style. Originally he designed costumes and theater settings, later on he would be recruited by the big fashion magazines for his illustrations. Berard would eventually illustrate for both "Vogue" and "Harper's Bazaar" during the 1930's and 40's.

Berard studied painting with Vuillard when young and his brush style evokes the sensitive ink line of Japanese brush work. His signature style has a simple almost abstract qualities. He also explored the bright color contrasts often associated with the war years, such as acid green and plum or gold and dark green. Born in 1902, he died young at age 47 in 1949.

Fashion Illustration by Eric, C. 1940's

Another great fashion illustration by "Eric" (Carl Erickson) who was a strong graphic influence from the 1930's through 1950's for the American "Vogue" magazine. There is a mention of Carl Erickson this month in "Vogue" along with a small glimpse of him in a fashion photo of Gertrude Stein by Horst (see February, 2012, page 112).

Late 1930's Fashion Illustration by Eric: Carl Erickson

Eric was an American fashion illustrator during the 1930's through mid-1950's. His full name was Carl Erickson (1891 - 1958). He is best known for his full color "Vogue" editorials, that he created during the more than 35 years that he contributed to the magazine.

Eric's style included a sensitive line often created with black brush strokes or charcoal made on rough paper. His portraits of famous clients included Gertrude Stein, Queen Elizabeth and President Roosevelt. He worked from live models, rather than photos. Most of this time he lived in Paris, the fashion center during those decades.

This illustration was cropped and removed from the original magazine issue, so the date is general: about 1938.

Victorian Styled Hats from the late 1930's

These adorable illustrations come from the late 1930's, artist unknown. There is such a sweet Victorian revival style to the look. Victorian influences were wildly popular during the late 1930's and into the 1940's. The classic 1939 movie "The Women" with designs by Gilbert Adrian is a great way to see these quirky little hats in action.

What to Wear: STYLES for a VINTAGE New Year

from a 1930's fashion scrapbook

1930's Vintage Fashion: Turn Around to See the Back View

Fashion during the 1930's was cut with diagonal bias seams to be smooth and slinky. The back view of a dress was often its best feature. These illustrations are from an old scrap book of mine, so I can't give you the exact dates, however most are from the early half of this decade. These fashion illustrations are just a peek into the wide range of back views seen during that time.

If you are dating a vintage dress that seems to be from this era, check out the back, that may help determine what decade it is from even more than the front view. And if you are going to sew for summer, why not consider adding some back interest to your project, that could make it something special.

1930's Women's Pants: Polka Dots and Sailor Styles

Wide leg pants are showing up in fashion again, affected by the 1970's influences currently affecting trends. The sailor styles we saw during the 1970's had their origins in the 1930's when women began to wear 'beach pajamas' and men's tailored trousers.

The women's beach pajamas illustrated here date from the early 1930's (some are dated 1931), and show how women were able to choose from a wide variety of style details and looks. Most interesting to me is the white double breasted suit. Who says YSL was the first to put women in pant suits? Here's a great example from nearly 40 years earlier!

So be inspired, this silhouette has alot to offer and is a great change of pace from the skinny jeans we have seen for the past few years.