Thursday, December 27, 2012

HOLIDAY SALE: Now Thru New Years!

A quick note: Pintuck's HOLIDAY SALE is on NOW through New Years!

Most is marked 20% off, so don't miss out.

Vintage Fashion:

Sewing and More:

What to Wear: New Year's 1964

How about trying an early 1960's style this New Years? These fun Mad Men era fashion photos come from the December 1963 issue of "Seventeen" magazine. What I noticed first as I looked at these styles is the color. Although the top two dresses are black, as I might have expected, the others really show alot of color. They are all long, which seems more formal too.

1963 feels transitional. There's a 1950's vibe still present in the way bodices fit and skirts are full. But Jackie O's influence is clearly seen in the contrast 'shell' tops over a more bell shaped skirt. The cute head kerchiefs and high waist long formal coats also look 'new' for that year. In only a few short years, all would change, including fashion. Right here it seems so fun and innocent, doesn't it.

Maybe you have recognized the young actors in these photos? From the top: George Hamilton with his big smile, Peter Duchin, Gary Lockwood, and finally Tony Perkins at the start of his career.

If you look for vintage, you'll notice that gowns from this era are still available. Unlike their 50's counterparts this silhouette has a more natural body fit, so you won't feel the pinch!

One note about this issue: it would have been on the stands when JFK was assassinated, making this issue from the end of his and Jackie O's eventful era.

Sunday, December 16, 2012

1948 Coat: Fashion Illustration by M. Bolegard

In the Post WWII years, 1940's coats became more feminine and fitted. This version from 1948 has a cape shoulder and embellishment that is probably braid or soutache trims. Made in the princess seamed silhouette, the coat has a fit and flare style that was so new in the late 1940's. The era that followed the war showed many looks that used a considerable amount of fabric, something that was impossible during the war. The romantic trend was also part of the Victorian revival where crinoline dresses became the norm.

We also can't help but notice the vivacious red accessories. This perky hat predicts the trends seen through the 1950's, with a bit of trim and veiling.

This is an advertisement for both the "Edelson" label and wool gabardine by Lorraine Fabrics of New York. Look for the textile label when you find a vintage coat. Sometimes that may help you determine the date.

The Fashion Illustration

This is illustration was signed by "M Bolegard". It is an ink wash with black brush lines. Great accents are seen in the red details.

India ink is a rich, heavy black ink that can be diluted with water to produce sheer gray washes. Using a heavy paper with some texture, a pencil sketch was made first, often using a live model. Next, the shading was added using light gray washes. When those dried, saturate black ink was brushed on to create the illustration.

The red elements would have been painted with guache or watercolor at the same time as the gray under wash. To get that very white glove, a 'mask' of rubber cement could have been brushed on the area before adding the washes. This mask would then be rubbed off after the wash had dried, revealing the original unpainted white paper. White also may have been painted in with guache. It would have covered any gray wash to create a 'pop' of white.

The name "Bolegard" as an illustrator appears to be often used without a first name. This artist worked for department stores such as Marshal Field & Company in Chicago as early as 1919, and was probably a resident of that city at that time.

Reference: Catalog of Commercial Art, Exhibition, 1920, but Society of Art Directors, Art Institute of Chicago

Sunday, December 9, 2012

Let's Talk About: Chanel Metiers d'Art, 2013 & Historical Inspiration

The Chanel Metiers d'Art for Fall 2013 has been buzzing big online this week. In part, it was the lush use of Scottish textiles and heather colors that caught the eye of everyone who has seen it. But another facet of this collection are the direct references to Elizabethan era fashion, men's apparel in particular. This slide shows both a runway look and men's doublets from the late 1500's that could have inspired it.

Lagerfeld has always shown an interest in using historical references to inspire his work, and this design from the early 1600's is a great example of how skillfully he can take a strong historical silhouette and create modern fashion that feels new and exciting.

The three slides shown include several runway ensembles along with original historical portraits. I hope they help to demonstrate how closely Lagerfeld used the late 1500's to mid-1600's as design inspiration. The women in black dresses with white lace accents from 1600's were obviously used to inspire this black dress on the runway. It also is easy to see where he worked with current trends for line, silhouette, color and texture to produce dramatic and new design ideas that are clearly derived from the past.

It is brilliant and creative collections like this one that drive fashion forward and give us something to talk about and try out for ourselves. Keep your eye on Fall 2013, we may see more of styles like these as other brands modify and copy Lagerfeld's lead.

This original article on fashion is part 9 of a series called "Let's Talk About:" that is posted only here at Pintucks. The contents of this article are the intellectual property of this blog. Please do not copy any content or images to another blog or digital media without contacting me first. I will ask that you link back to this article and give reference to this source within your feature. If you are using content or images for a research paper or project, please link back to this page in the traditional academic format, thank you!

Wednesday, December 5, 2012

Independant Fashion Bloggers: Help when you need it

Do you have a blog that looks at fashion in some way? If so, you may want to check out Independent Fashion Bloggers, a 'self-help' group of bloggers that share tips and ideas that relate to all areas of blogging, including technical help, marketing, and other important things that you need to know, but there's no one to tell you.

I get the site's bulletins in my email, so I don't miss a beat. I can't count how many times I've gotten new information, ideas and help with my blog. Why not take a look and try them out.

Independent Fashion Bloggers:
Illustration: Don't you love the elegance of this woman in a black and white striped striped jacket? She's from an Elgin compact advertisement, winter of 1944.


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