Teach Yourself to Drape Patterns: How to Get Started

 
Let's Talk About: Fashion Design
When you have fashion design ideas, one of the first skills you need to have is creating an original pattern.  If you cannot take a pattern design class, it can be very frustrating to learn how to make a pattern.  There are two main ways to produce a pattern.  The draping method uses a professional dress form, laying fabric on it to create the desired garment style.  The flat drafting method uses measurements to create a drafted pattern.  Often the draft is actually a manipulation of a pre-existing pattern.

Most students begin with pattern draping.  After learning to work with fabric on the 3-D form, their pattern can be traced onto paper and used for future patterns.  The following information will be based on learning how to drape patterns.

Before you start: the first purchase must be a dress form.  While these can be costly, they are essential for all types of design and sewing, so it is as important to own as your sewing machine.  What size to buy?  If you plan to create designs that might later be sold, you should consider a sample size "8" to start.  This is generally considered a basic size.  If you have a specific target market, get your dress form in their 'average' size and shape.  If you are sewing for yourself, then that size would be best.  If you are looking at an older dress form, brands such as "Modern Model" and "Wolf" are common.   "PGM" is a more recent brand that is imported.

Professional dress forms will have the following:

strong, sturdy base with wheels and adjustable height pedal
collapsable shoulders (used to pull off skirts)
princess seam lines in the muslin cover
shoulder plates where the armholes should be
pin-able surface
 
Tools and Supplies for Pattern Draping:

Pins: long pins are best for working on a dress form
L ruler, aluminum:: 24" x 14", this is a metal ruler with a right angle
Clear ruler: this "C through" 18" long x 2" wide ruler has a grid mapped on it.
Measuring tape: plastic

Marker: many students use 'sharpie' brand markers
Pencil: a standard desk type pencil can be used
tailor's chalk: a chalk that is thin and flat for sharp lines
Shears: you will want 8" sharp fabric shears for cutting your yardage
Muslin: 100% cotton is required.  A medium weight is best (don't use a thin, cheap muslin)
Twill tape: 1/4" wide tape will be used to wrap around the dress form to mark specific body areas

Tools and Supplies for transfering muslin pattern to paper:

tracing wheel or pattern wheel: sharp needle point wheel with wooden handle
awl: to punch holes in the paper
French curve: clear plastic curve to draft smooth lines around curves
hip curve: 24" long, a larger gentle curve used to draft smooth lines
pattern notcher: 1/16", used to mark pattern edges
dot paper
manila paper or other heavy paper such as 'butcher paper'
heavy scissors: for cutting paper

Tutorials for learning Pattern Draping:

Before starting a draping program, the student should have a good understanding of sewing and some experience working with patterns. Before beginning a drape, it would be a good idea to purchase the same style pattern first, then cut and sew it before learning to drape it.  

A series of tutorials for 10 garment processes along with how to prepare the dress form is available online through Cornell University, HERE.  Each process is shown in a step-by-step format.  The entire set of tutorials equals about one or two semesters of classroom projects at the college level. A draping text is recommended as a guide.  This series assumes the student is an intermediate level sewist, who has experience in sewing the garment being draped. 

Videos: With so many videos available online, it's tough to select tutorials that are well planned and accurate.
Craftsy.com has a full series of pattern draping tutorials taught by Paul Gallo.  They are well priced, and appear to be comprehensive enough to get a student started in the draping technique.  On youtube.com this short video on draping by PandemicApparel is also a good place to start if you don't want to spend a cent before you get a 'feel' for this process:



References:  You can never have too many good books.  These are typical titles used in fashion draping courses:

Draping Basics, by Sally Di Marco.  I recommend this first due to the great tutorial photos.  She works with gingham fabric, which clearly show the grainlines while working.  There is a pdf preview online:  HERE
The Art of Fashion Draping, by Connie Amaden-Crawford
Draping for Apparel Design, by Helen Joseph-Armstrong
Draping for Fashion Design, by Hilde Jaffe

Shopping Resources: Most tools and supplies can be found online if you aren't located near a fashion college's student store.  One popular vendor is IDS International Design Supplies, Inc., Los Angeles and student kits are available: HERE

I hope this helps you to get started learning pattern design. If you have any questions--just ask and I'll get back with an answer!

This original article on fashion is part 10 of a series called "Let's Talk About:" that is posted only here at Pintucks. The contents of this article are the intellectual property of this blog. Please do not copy any content or images to another blog or digital media without contacting me first. I will ask that you link back to this article and give reference to this source within your feature. If you are using content or images for a research paper or project, please link back to this page in the traditional academic format, thank you!

Let's Talk About: Chanel Metiers d'Art, 2013 & Historical Inspiration

The Chanel Metiers d'Art for Fall 2013 has been buzzing big online this week. In part, it was the lush use of Scottish textiles and heather colors that caught the eye of everyone who has seen it. But another facet of this collection are the direct references to Elizabethan era fashion, men's apparel in particular. This slide shows both a runway look and men's doublets from the late 1500's that could have inspired it.

Lagerfeld has always shown an interest in using historical references to inspire his work, and this design from the early 1600's is a great example of how skillfully he can take a strong historical silhouette and create modern fashion that feels new and exciting.

The three slides shown include several runway ensembles along with original historical portraits. I hope they help to demonstrate how closely Lagerfeld used the late 1500's to mid-1600's as design inspiration. The women in black dresses with white lace accents from 1600's were obviously used to inspire this black dress on the runway. It also is easy to see where he worked with current trends for line, silhouette, color and texture to produce dramatic and new design ideas that are clearly derived from the past.

It is brilliant and creative collections like this one that drive fashion forward and give us something to talk about and try out for ourselves. Keep your eye on Fall 2013, we may see more of styles like these as other brands modify and copy Lagerfeld's lead.


This original article on fashion is part 9 of a series called "Let's Talk About:" that is posted only here at Pintucks. The contents of this article are the intellectual property of this blog. Please do not copy any content or images to another blog or digital media without contacting me first. I will ask that you link back to this article and give reference to this source within your feature. If you are using content or images for a research paper or project, please link back to this page in the traditional academic format, thank you!

Let's Talk About: How to Design a Fashion Group or Small Collections

Fashion Groups

How to put a fashion group together is critical in knowing how to design. This post will look at how fashion designers organize their groups of fashion items. It will list the most common types of fashion groups produced in the US.

Seasons and Market week

Most successful garment labels produce their fashions in specific ways. Each year they release new designs at specific times, along with other companies producing similar products. These are called ‘seasons’ and they do relate to the seasons of the year, however they precede the seasons in nature by many months. This early presentation event is called ‘market week’ and it allows store buyers to see what is available and place their orders with the company. The company in turn will need time to produce the garments that were ordered and ship them out to the store. All of this must occur before a specific deadline date when the store will put these garments out for shoppers to buy.

Merchandising

When new fashions arrive and go on display in the store, many times they are grouped by brand name, price, target customer and type of clothing. This is called ‘merchandising’ the store. Because the brand knows that their products will be displayed together, they try to create garments that look good on the racks together and help to give the store a well coordinated look in that area. This is often done by selecting a color and fabric theme and even a style concept for the entire group.

Coordinate lines

Coordinate lines appeal to shoppers who see the pleasing colors and garments in the area, and want to try on more than one piece. Ideally they will select several pieces from the brand that they can wear together, such as a few tops that work well with a few bottoms. These are called ‘coordinate groups’ and they present the customer with pieces that mix-and-match together easily. Brands who do this are popular with store buyers because they know that customers will want to buy entire outfits, especially when the colors and fabrics look good together.

The illustration above shows a Simplicity pattern from the 1950's that contains a summer play group. Every element was carefully designed to work together. The fabric color and pattern, the silhouette and even the "Sari" theme helps to make the look sophisticated. Because each piece can be worn with the other pieces, this is an example of a small coordinate group.

Lines

Lines have carefully selected colors, prints and trims in a limited range. This includes fashions that are not coordinates, such as dresses, coats and other apparel. Ideally all of the items relate and will merchandise well together in the stores. Additionally, the designer will produce several versions of their product, so that a wider range of customers will find what fits them best.

This illustration from a McCall's pattern during the late 1940's show two gowns made from the same fabric, with the same style theme, but having small changes. It is shifts in design like this that can make up a line.

Item lines

Some designers create single garments, or a group of styles that aren’t intended to be worn together. If a single style will be sold alone, it is called an item line. This might be a group of tops that have different styles and fabrics.

Collections

A collection may pull together several lines, so it is a larger concept. It will be made up of many designs that have well planned set of colors, prints, trims and textiles. There is usually an overall style theme as well. Within the collection are smaller groups of styles called lines.

Sometimes brands will create unique lines for bigger stores who are willing to pay for the privilege of selling exclusive lines to their customers. The stores may even set up displays and racks dedicated to this exclusive group. The brand may want to assist by training the sales force so that they understand the fit, sizing and style that the brand is known for. Doing this means that the customer will be assisted in each store by a sales person who knows how to sell the product well.

The fashion illustration at the top of the page are two suits from 1944 designed by the American designer, Vera Maxwell. Although these suits differ, they clearly have the same fabric, color and trims. There is also a strong design sense that ties them together. This is what a collection should have when it is carefully assembled from lines that work together well.

This Fashion Design article about designing fashion groups is part 8 of a series of original tutorials on how to become a fashion designer that are posted HERE at Pintucks. The contents of this article are the intellectual property of this blog. Please do not copy any content to another blog or digital media without contacting me first. I will ask that you link back to this article and give reference to this source within your feature. If you are using content for a research paper or project, please link back to this page in the traditional academic format, thank you!

Let's Talk About: Spotting Fashion Trends

Trend Spotting

Where do ideas for a popular trend come from? Designers look to many sources when researching trends. Some subscribe to predictive services that show trends based on several areas of research. Once a designer understands trend predictions, the next step is to adapt a new trend style for the their customer base.

Shopping the market:

The fastest way to see what is happening right now is to shop where mass produced apparel is sold. This is called “shopping the market”. When doing this, the designer can focus on specific apparel types. Fashion trends are often sold first by small boutiques, online stores or vintage shops. By looking at what these stores are selling, a forecast for future trends can be possible. Often, the term "cool hunting" is used to define this process.
Examples: boutique shopping in cities, flea market shopping, vintage shopping online

World Fashion and Fashion media:

New York, Paris, Milan, Tokyo and other international fashion cities present shows worldwide each season. These shows are watched by industry professionals and the media. They are looking for new styles, colors and silhouettes that could be influential to the current market. This information can be sent to designers who subscribe to trend reports by predictive services.

Predictive services package reports that show what they observed during market week or on the streets in cities around the world. This time-sensitive information is costly, but it’s often the only way that designers located outside of the fashion centers can get the latest fashion information. The consumer will see similar information in fashion blogs and later in glossy fashion magazines such as Vogue, Elle and others. Online reports happen more quickly than print media and are often the first to report styles to the public.
Examples: fashion web sites, fashion magazines, designer web sites

Regional subgroups:

Some trends develop in specific cities or global regions where apparel may be worn by those who are experimenting with fashions. An example would be that many designers of young men’s wear look at the surf and skate trends that develop along the coast of Southern California. The surf culture there is often inventive with apparel, adapting existing styles to create new ones. The climate allows this group to wear and experiment year round. These fashions are often produced first locally by small companies or individuals long before they reach the mass production stage.
Examples: Surf culture, ski culture, resort fashions

Social groups and Street fashion:

Major events are occasions for observing trends and forecasting styles. Often trend research looks at “early adopters”. These are people who experiment with fashion and want to explore new and unusual styles. Large cultural events such as Coachella, a music festival held each spring in the California desert, showcase new trends as worn by the people attending this event. Because of the normally warm weather, this event is often used to predict new trends for spring and summer. Club scenes, celebrity awards shows, and events where early fashion adopters attend are locations where designers look for trends.
Examples: the Oscars, Music awards, Music festivals, Rockabilly car culture, Club culture

Media:

Sometimes a media event can start a trend. A popular movie can create a demand for a specific style, accessory or silhouette. An early example of this was in 1933. A wildly popular formal dress was designed by Gilbert Adrian for Joan Crawford to wear in the movie “Letty Lynton”. That dress captured the public’s imagination and copies were sold in huge numbers following the release of the movie. Another example in the 1990’s was a “Y” necklace seen on “Friends”. This was a fast trend that was quickly copied. More recently, “Mad Men” as created a demand for late 1950’s and early 1960’s fashion styles for both men and women’s apparel.
Examples: movies and television, stage plays and musicals, music videos, blogs

The Arts:

Gallery exhibitions can generate new interest in styles from the past or regional costume and textiles. The Metropolitan Museum’s 2003 exhibit: the Goddess, the Classica Mode, created an awareness of Ancient Greek and Roman fashion influences. This sparked a revival of Grecian inspired gowns in contemporary fashion.
Examples: recent exhibitions on Schiaparelli, Balenciaga, YSL, the 1700's and others

Political and Economic trends:

Large political events can bring attention to the fashions being worn. Jackie O’s wardrobe during the 1960’s is a good example of how influential a political figure can be on fashion trends. But politics can also affect consumer awareness. The trend towards organic fibers and dyes has political overtones. It affects the culture and economy. This is an example of how a political concern: reduce waste and chemicals in production, can create a demand in fashion. Politics also brings different cultures and cultural types into the public eye. Seeing unusual apparel can inspire early adopters to try new styles. Military inspired trends usually arise from political events in the media.
Examples: “green” production, military wear, wearing American produced apparel

Trend Reports

Overall; research such as this requires time, expense and expertise. As a result, most designers subscribe to predictive forecasting services that do this work for them. The service will send a team to a location where trends have been known to appear. They photograph what people are wearing there. Sometimes forecasters report on what is being sold at boutiques in major urban areas worldwide. These photos are evaluated and selected to show what they feel are important looks.

The forecast report may take the form of a book, online photo library or video showing people “on the street” wearing the trends predicted. These are often sent out by season. Because of their exclusivity, the public cannot buy these reports. Some services release their information after the major market week for that season, when the information is no longer top secret.

Many design houses subscribe to the same trend forecasting services and they are shown the same looks. If designers choose the same trends to follow, the customer will see this as a strong style trend when it reaches the market. This is how a fashion style will seem to suddenly appear in stores. Most likely it was a strong trend prediction, so many design businesses went in that direction.

Some designers do not use trend forecasting services because their target customer will not want to wear a popular trend. Sometimes these are avant garde customers looking for totally new looks. Other customers don’t want to wear new and unusual styles. Often they have a strong style sense that does not change. These are often termed “missy” customers. They want to wear apparel that is accepted and on trend, but not innovative or unusual. In general, missy customers shop women’s departments at moderate department stores or budget priced apparel sources such as Wal-Mart, JCPenney, and Sears.
Examples: Interfiliele, Trendstop, WGSN, and others (see Fashion Trendsetter.com for free reports)

If you were a predictive service, where would you be looking for new trends? Can you see new style ideas in any of the museum shows now on exhibit? Start a resource link list to major sources such as; museums, entertainment media, magazines, street style blogs, and other places where you can spot trends in the making.

How do designers come up with new ideas? Now that we can see where fashion trends are sourced, next week we’ll look at how original fashion ideas are formed and where designers go to get new ideas.

This original article on spotting fashion trends is part 2 of a series on fashion design that are posted weekly here at Pintucks. The contents of this article are the intellectual property of this blog. Please do not copy any content to another blog or digital media without contacting me first. I will ask that you link back to this article and give reference to this source within your feature. If you are using content for a research paper or project, please link back to this page in the traditional academic format, thank you!