Friday, October 5, 2012

Sewing Tip: Dart Marking & Sewing

Cutting out and transferring dart markings can take up an entire evening. This method uses a minimum of fussing with the paper pattern and fabric layers.

To start, immediately after cutting out the pattern piece, stop and 'stab' a pin through all layers at each dot on the paper pattern that you want to transfer. Push the pins in straight (not slanted).

When all dots have pins in them, flip open the two fabric layers (step 2). You will see the pin passing through both fabrics. While the pin is in place, RUB a chalk (or fabric pencil) over the pin just where it enters the fabric (step 3). This will leave a tiny mark that is easy to see.

After marking the pins, remove the pattern from your fabric. Open the pattern piece flat on the work table. For each dart, mark the dart point with a + so you can see exactly where the point should be and the stitch line will stop. Fold through this +, creasing down the center length of the dart to the bottom edge where the notch clips can be matched.

Once the dart is folded, it's time to pin the dart together. Align the dots by weaving a pin in at one mark and out through the other mark. Then pull the dart together along the fold (step 5). This will be certain that both dots are aligned and match up. Use a second pin to pin both layers together, then remove the first pin.

It helps to be sure all pins are perpendicular to the sewing line. This will allow the sewing machine can sew across those pins easily. When you sew a fitting garment, be sure to use the largest stitch length, and contrast colored thread so you can easily remove the stitching if needed.

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