Saturday, May 28, 2011

Vintage Dress: late 1930's to early 1940's



Dating vintage dresses can be fun, with so many clues to find hidden in the dress. The vintage dress shown here dates from the late 1930's through early 1940's. It is of black crepe, cut with a skirt that has 10 gores sewn to the hip yoke. This fanciful design was lost when WWII rations controlled skirt yardage. In addition, it has 2 metal zippers by Talon: one at the back neckline, and the other in the left side seam. These are typical locations for zippers during that era. The metal zippers would become unavailable during the war years, so we can assume this dress was made prior to 1942.

The photos below give some close-up views showing the details of both bodice and skirt. These details can help when trying to create reproductions. They also provide inspiration when designing modern fashions with a hint of vintage.


The bodice bows are set on very small pockets where the yoke meets the crepe bodice. The striped yoke and sleeves are made from 1/4" wide strips of the crepe fabric, sewn to a sheer black backing.


The skirt has 3 gores in back and 7 in front. The hip yoke is cut in one with the center gore, creating a "T" shaped panel. The length is original to the dress, with an inch deep hem. There are signs of belt loops at each side seam.

Bodice shirring in 5 rows creates gathers at the waistline. These provide the fit without darts because the entire bodice is cut on the bias.





Measurements:
bustline = 42" around
waistline = 33" around
hipline = 40" around
bodice length = 17" from shoulder, over bust to waistline
skirt length = 27" from waistline to hem at side seam
sleeve length = 5" at side seam
sleeve width = 12" around at cuff
hem line circumference = 84" around

Available at PintuckStyle on Etsy