Wednesday, January 27, 2016

Fashion Detail: Chanel Haute Couture and Vintage Details

What makes French Haute Couture different from ready to wear? For me it is the lavish application of handwork, draping and other labor intensive techniques. But sometimes, when looking at vintage fashion, I find examples that have wonderful details, often applied by hand, that set the dress or suit apart from other vintage or contemporary fashions and create an aura of couture.

This detail from a late 1950's or early 1960's dress by Lilli Diamond label has some of those qualities. The beading was hand applied onto a wool jersey. The use of beading on wool is often a great study in contrasts.

Chanel for Spring/Summer 2016 shows a video with some examples of the details seen in the Haute Couture line. While these amazing styles might be out of touch for our personal budgets, not to mention ever appearing in a store near most of us, little gems of handwork, detailing and drapery can be found in vintage that capture a unique sense of style too.

The details that follow are all vintage fashions that were custom made, production made or home made, but all share moments of wonderful detail and style that depict what can be found in vintage fashions.

It was details like these that got me started collecting vintage fashions. They have a great sense of individuality and visual interest that inspires new generations.

Description of Slides: from the Top, see more details for those that were listed in the shop by clicking on the link:

Lilli Diamond, c. 1962. tan wool jersey with beading and velvet ribbon sash,

Bruyere, Paris, c. 1932. brown net, velvet bows and flocking

Edith Byrne tailored in Hong Kong, c. 1968. peach silk with beaded hand sewn button

Union made, no label, c. early 1960's. floral silk with self bias trim around waistline

J.W. Robinsons, c. early 1960's. floral cotton sateen with hand made rosettes

Samuel Grossman, c. mid 1960's. black crepe with white cotton lace collar, black bow (back view)

Hand sewn, c. mid 1950's. green faille with curved shirred insets, covered buttons

Cover Girl of Miami. c. early 1960's. floral chiffon with piping and covered buttons (back view)

1 comment:

Lynn said...

So wonderful to hear from you, Jen! And these are gorgeous details. I wonder why most of them have disappeared today. Is it that we are accustomed to paying so little for our clothes? Has the skill set of factory workers declined? Or do we just no longer value little details?