Thursday, October 29, 2015

Vintage 1960's Davidow Jacket: Close-up View

This Davidow jacket comes from a suit c. 1962. It has a Chanel influence, like so many other Davidow suits from that era. Let's take a closer look at this jacket to show how it was made, and what features and details make it unique.

Here, the bold trim has been refined to become a narrow crepe edge, rather than the usual textured bindings. I just listed it for sale on Etsy and thought I would share it here too.

The jacket has a boxy body with hip bone length torso and 3/4 sleeves to create a compact, neat silhouette popular at that time. The subdued trim is a crepe used also for the lining. It wraps around the edges as shown in the lifted collar view. The pockets have flaps, and are actually functional. There are bound buttonholes, worn here with gold toned buttons that may have replaced self covered buttons from the original suit.

For structure, this soft lightweight jacket has very thin shoulder pads.  Davidow was known for their light styling, often without traditional tailoring interfacing or structure in the Chanel style.  This jacket does not have a structured front to support the buttons, and the collar is very thin as well. From advertisements (see below), it is probable that the skirt was narrow.

The I. Magnin label denotes the high quality and sales price for this original suit. It would have been sold at a trunk show, made to order per the customer's measurements. The suit may have sold for between $145 and $198 in 1962.

To get a better idea about this luxury brand, there are several advertisements with prices HERE.  This article also goes into more detail about the label.  I show another Davidow suit that is probably from a few years later HERE. For more examples, my "Davidow" folder on Pinterest also has many examples from this wonderful suit label.

Keep this label on your radar when you scan wool jackets and suits at a yard sale or thrift shop, they are distinctive and use quality fabrics, so they won't be easy to miss.


Lynn said...

This reminds me of the beautiful Davidow jacket that your grandmother had! I made a Davidow style jacket from a Claire Shaeffer pattern some years ago--a lot of work.

Jen O said...

A Davidow workshop with Claire Shaeffer would be wonderful--I read in your blog post on her that she may quit her workshops soon, so I'd better get moving and see about taking one before it's too late!

Jessica Cangiano said...

Gorgeous! The colour palette here absolutely sings out for spring to me. I could see this making for a smashing Easter Sunday jacket.

♥ Jessica

Jen O said...

It would be cute for Easter. What's fun about these tweedy jackets is that they are equally nice with casual jeans as they are with a skirt or dress.