Monday, December 15, 2014
Bonnie Cashin: Coat Pattern Draft for Leather and Canvas Coat
Bonnie Cashin coats like this one in leather on canvas for Sills, have a very simple, easy to draft and sew pattern. To help in understanding this 'Noh' silhouette coat, I prepared a draft to scale that shows all details involved in this coat.
You can see in this photo that many of her 'signature' details are present: simple shape with sleeves cut in one with the body, leather bound edges (rather than hems), and brass twist looks (instead of buttons). This coat is lined in a cotton plaid twill. Usually a Cashin coat will have some sort of large and functional side seam pocket. In this case she applied a whimsical mock shoulder bag for each side of the body.
This draft is drawn to scale with one grid square to equal one inch. The leather trim creates mock shoulder straps that are about 1.5" wide. Rather than being straight, these straps do curve a bit at the shoulder. The big zippered 'purse' pocket is 13" across including the strap pieces. It is shifted slightly towards the front.
In this back view, the rest of the bag details are seen. The collar in center back is about 4.5" wide and 20.5" across from point to point. This collar is nearly straight, having only a slight curve to the neckline edge. There is a center back seamline.
This front view shows how the coat appears when worn and the close up view shows more details there.
The pocket has an industrial brazz zipper that is about 8" long. It is set into a slot to fit that is about 5/8" wide. The lower pocket closes with a twist lock. It is nearly 10" wide and 9.5" deep where it is 'framed' by the strap leather edge.
This pocket is inspiring, and I hope it gives you an idea or two for some custom sewing of your own. Don't overlook sewing with leather because it's not that difficult, especially as it is used here. A good used leather skirt could be savaged for leather, if you want to test this pocket for yourself.
For more on Bonnie Cashin Drawings and Photos--follow my Cashin board on Pinterest: Here
I have also published the following articles on Cashin in this blog, click on any title:
Cashin Coat Illustration from Spring 1966
Mohair Blanket Coat
Cashin Turn Locks and HERE
Knits and Girdles advertisement, 1961
Summer Coat, June 1950
1949 Coat Patent, Illustrated
This wonderful coat was purchased from Chelsea Harris, who curates "Femalehysteria"