Sewing Vintage Fashion: How to Flat LIne a Dress

1960's Print Dress in a cotton screen print, I.Magnin label

What is 'flat lining and how is it sewn?  Making vintage styles can be a new experience if you have only sewn crafts and easy modern fashions. One of the best ways to learn how-to sew dresses, especially vintage dresses, is to look at real examples. Trying to get the right effect usually means following the same, or similar sewing techniques along the way.  In this post we'll look at 'flat lining' in fashion sewing.

50s Dress Fabrics: Embroidered Borders @ Prints

Sewing vintage or retro dress styles requires a great fabric to compliment the silhouette. I was lucky enough to find a collection of embroidered designer dress fabric from the 1950's in silk and cotton recently. This type of fabric is perfect for skirts with fullness and shape, such as the ones in these new Butterick patterns.

Embroidered fabric is also a wonderful texture to add to any dress design. When they have borders, try using this fabric alone in the skirt and pair it with a sold colored bodice. All-over patterns work well sewn up in the entire dress. If you are going to try making a 50s retro style dress, take a look at these vintage fabrics.



This gingham check border embroidery shows how border designs are also perfect for strapless bustiers and other horizontal necklines. This is a cute cotton fabric with white embroidery, it's so 50's!



It's always nice to find light weight prints from this era when you want to sew a fuller skirt or summer dress. The gorgeous large scale butterfly pattern here would be perfect in a wide or gathered skirt where the design could be seen. It is a cotton crepe that has a matte finish and a very light quality.

Find these fabrics now at Pintuck Sew, or click on the description below:

Yellow sheer cotton voile with white embroidered leafy border

Brown silk organza sheer with white all-over daisy design

Yellow cotton gingham with white embroidered daisy border

Purple sheer cotton voile with white embroidered leafy border

Blue butterfly all-over print on cotton georgette

A Closer Look: 1960's Sheath Dress with Cape Drape

I thought it might be fun to take a closer look at this Mad Men era sheath dress with a great cape drape around the neckline. The back view really makes the dress, while the front view has a classic silhouette.

It looks like a circle cape is sewn around the neckline, that plunges to a deep "V" that is squared off at the point with a wide bow in back. This cape was then folded up at the neckline in front (see detail), and arranged over the shoulders in a fold, while the back floats open.

I include here a view that shows me lifting the back drape so you can see how it is sewn to the dress.

And finally a few close-up views to show more details.

This pink crepe cocktail dress was designed by Anita Modes (I'm guess it was sold at the popular Anita shops). It is fully lined with a center back zipper that has the cape floating open over that zip. A wide bow covers this opening. The sheath dress design has darts to fit and is very simple.

Isn't this inspiring? This style of cape could be added to an existing simple dress for a great holiday look. It flows nicely in crepe here, but a soft satin or even a soft lace could be gorgeous over a simple dress you already own. I would love to try draping this kind of cape collar sometime. If you try it, let me know how it goes!

Easy to Sew: Make your own Dress

Do you want to try sewing a dress that is easy to sew and looks great, but don't know where to start? Here's a few ideas to start with. The first two patterns are vintage, and the third is a modern take on vintage styles. All are easy to sew up in this gorgeous pink cotton floral print. All are available in the shop this week.

On the first pattern, the "A" line shaping just skims over the figure. This pink dress with the bias cut collar is a silhouette that is very flattering on figures with curvey hips. It is a vintage pattern by Simplicity 7625 from 1968. When finding patterns, look for "A" line shift styles like this that have simple darts and 2 main pattern pieces.

Hate to sew zippers? This second pattern is a super straight shift style that has only side bust darts. Chances are you may be able to get away without sewing in a back zipper if the dress slips on over your head! Look for vintage pattern Simplicity 4471 from 1964.

For a modern fit, I like this third pattern, a discontinued McCall's 4768. Although it has only 2 main pattern pieces, the upper body is shaped by princess seam lines. Princess seams are the best way to fit a curvey bustline because you can make adjustments for a perfect look. The flutter hem detail is optional, so this pattern is perfect for a slender sheath dress project.

When it comes to sewing, this pink floral fabric is an easy to sew cotton sateen that has a smooth finish. This is a recent textile with a vintage look, and it would be perfect for sewing any of these dresses.

You may have noticed that I selected sleeveless styles for this group. That will save you time and energy spent sewing in sleeves. When fall arrives, just throw on a cardigan and tights, and you'll wear your dress into the cooler weather.

Sewing Tips for Retro Patterns: Butterick 5748 and Butterick 5747

What we have here are tow popular "Retro" Butterick patterns: 5747 and 5748 with some tips for sewing these vintage style patterns.

The first pattern, Butterick 5747, is from 1960, and has it comes with two great skirt options. We love the wide shawl collar with notches. This pattern should be easy to sew. It has only 4 main pattern pieces: bodice (front and back) and skirt (front and back). The simple bodice is darted for fit, and doesn't have set in sleeves. Either skirt is basic, and both styles button down the center front.


This second pattern, Butterick 5748, is also dated 1960. A "Retro" pattern  with a classic fit bodice with circle skirt. Nothing complicated about it, and there are so many ways this style can go. In the meantime, there's no reason why a narrow fit straight skirt couldn't replace that circle skirt that comes with the pattern, if that is what you want (or a simple gathered skirt as well).

My blog post on FLAT LINING could come in handy when sewing these styles, since either dress would look great with flat lining.

I have another blog post on ”S” DARTS AND FLAT LINING that looks into flat lining in detail, and shows a technique for making well fit bodice darts. The demo dresses are similar to the #5748 dress pattern.

I think you'll find these dresses a good addition to your sewing stock. I look forward to trying these out soon myself!

1950's Summer Pool and Play Set

When sewing vintage fashion styles, sometimes you have to copy an idea, rather than use a pattern. This Simplicity sewing pattern from the 1950's has a classic detachable skirt worn over a short playsuit. The wrapped bodice seems strongly influenced by Claire McCardell and other American designers who were creating styles with an Indian sari influence. The jumpsuit image shows how the edge of a sari could be used to create a dramatic diagonal on the one shoulder top.

For a sewing project, this outfit is worth taking a second look, especially for the wrapped neckline which can be made with or without the second shoulder panel. The easy to sew gathered skirt is accented by a detachable cummerbund. The skirt fastens in front and it acts as a cover-up for going indoors at the country club.


The back of the pattern shows how the pieces are cut. Even though this pattern is no longer available, it is possible to re-create the same look with a gathered skirt over a jumpsuit or shorts and halter top.


The original pattern seems to be Simplicity 7605, however with the torn edge I can't be sure. Currently Butterick 6582 has a similar wrapped bodice that could be used for the top and Vogue 1003 has a basic pant pattern that could be good place to start the shorts.

Sewing Retro Sun Dresses: 1930s and 1940s Vintage Styles

It is easy to sew a retro style sun dress. Vintage styles are sometimes hidden in modern patterns. Using contemporary commercial patterns has a few advantages: availability, fit, cost. For anyone who loves the 1930's and 1940's look, true vintage from that era can be fragile, valuable and difficult to fit. With some cute reproduction cotton prints, it's now possible to re-create similar styles to those sewn up and worn during the 30's and 40's.

These sundress patterns have a 40's vibe, with the simple cut and soft skirt. At first glance, these may seem to be alot like dresses from the 1950's. Probably the biggest difference between 1940's and 1950's sundress patterns are the softer skirts and shorter lengths in the 40's. The knee length skirts look better with the wedgie sandals worn then.

In revising these current patterns it's possible to get a cute retro look. The first style is ready to go, just shorten it to knee length. The center view could be made more retro looking with a simple white collar or adding bow where the little 'V' notch is in front. The third view has a 1930's vibe, with the higher waistline and flared skirt. By choosing a hem length appropriate to the time, you will have a sweet sun dress so like the ones you see in vintage movies.

Fabric selection is a breeze with the great reproduction cotton prints for sale. Although produced for quilts, these fabrics are very similar to the affordable cottons women used in that earlier era. Quilting cottons are also a great fabric for new sewists because they don't slip, stretch or act funny. Pre-wash any cotton fabric a few times to be sure it has shrunk before you cut out your pattern.

Trims such as contrast bias tape, bigger sized buttons and patch pockets are design features that can be added to really make these simple dresses unique and very retro. Try these trims and you will notice how vintage your dress can look.


RETRO STYLE SEWING PATTERNS
Sun Dresses:
Simplicity 2174 - Princess seamline dress with pockets
Simplicity 3827 - Raised waistline with 'V' neckline
Vogue 8725 - Sweetheart neckline with halter neck tie

NAUVOO QUILT COMPANY
Nearly all of these vintage style cotton prints are from WINDHAM FABRICS 1930's and 1940's collection of cottons.

How to: COPY a DRESS or KNOCK-OFF a PATTERN

How can you copy a dress? How can you make a pattern from your favorite fashion? If you have ever loved a vintage dress and wanted to sew another, then knowing some basic techniques for copying garments would be helpful.

This tutorial will show you how I made a pattern from this vintage mid-1950's cotton dress. I chose a very simple style, one with short kimono style sleeves that are cut in one with the bodice. I also used a style with only one simple bodice dart in both front and back.

The details in this bodice are a simple wing collar with sleeve cuff to match. There is a button front as well.


The back view is 'clean', without details, showing a one piece construction with darts to make the fit.

As you follow these photos, you may want to 'click' on the image to see an enlarged version, as some details are small.

tools and materials:

Cork Board: I use a large old bulletin board

Paper: I use plain white butcher paper, because that is easy to find. Using the BACK side of old gift wrap in a wide width can work as well. If you have access to pattern 'dot' paper, then that is best. But I will show you how to work without that grid.

Ruler: A 12" or 18" ruler and a yard stick

Pins: I prefer pearl head pins because they are easy to use and see.

Pattern Wheel: This is ideal, but I will also show you how to use a pin to create marks if you don't have this tool.

Pencil: sharp

Dress: Pressed and smooth

TERMS: I will use the following terms

Grainline and On Grain: this is the 'up and down' direction that follows the yarns (warp) that would have been tied to the loom. It is a perfect vertical line.

Cross Grain: This is the 'side to side' yarn direction, that follows the yarns (weft or fill) that would have been woven across the loom. It is a perfect horizontal line that is exactly perpendicular to the Grainline.

Bias: This is a perfect diagonal line (45 degrees) created when the vertical grainline and horizontal cross grain line are folded together. This is the same line that is created when a bandana is folded to create a triangle. This diagonal has stretch properities.

Selvage: This is the fabric edge. Traditionally it is woven when the cross grain yarns (weft or fill) turn and weave back across the fabric. More modern wide with textiles may have a 'fringey' selvage.

Center front (CF): This is the front line of a garment. It can be found when the sides of the garment are evenly matched together, creating a fold (center front fold). In most garments, this is on grain and oriented perfectly vertical on the textile.

Center back (CB): This is the perfect back line of a garment and is determined the same way as center front.

This project will begin with the back view because it is the least complex.

Step 1: Find the center back line on the bodice
Work from the inside of the garment, match up the dart seams, side seams and neckline, pinning those together. This will produce a center back fold. You may press this flat

Step 2: Draft the center back line on paper
Lay a length of paper about 18" long on your cork board, pin the corners down.
Use your ruler to draw a sharp line that is about 18" long with at least 15" of paper width on one side. I turn the board sideways, and will work that way in the photos.

Step 3: Align the center back line
Lay your back bodice that is pinned so that the center back fold is exactly on the drafted line. Here I use my ruler to guide me. I then pin the fabric from waist to neckline on this fold.

Run the pattern wheel down the edge of your CB fold.
Run the pattern wheel along the waistline and neckline as far as you can without getting into any pulled areas.
Alternative method: using a long pin (corsage pin works well), run a length of 'stab' punches down the fold line. I just 'hop' the pin down the line, creating a length of pin dots.


NOTE: When I pin, I use a technique where two pins are in a "V" position. This helps to keep them fixed in place and not pull out.


Step 3: Draft the Dart: In this photo you can see how the dart tip is also pinned down. It is important to keep the grain of the fabric straight. The yarns should stay in a perfect 'grid' orientation, and not be stretched towards a bias or diagonal.

Run the pattern wheel up the dart seam line from waistline seam to the point. Accent that point with a cross mark to create a bulls eye "T".

Step 4: Bodice side and shoulder seams: It may be necessary to remove the CB pins as you smooth the garment towards the side seams. Smooth a perfect horizontal out from the point of bust and pin that point.

SUGGESTION: Work out from the dart's point to smooth out the fabric towards each seam line. Think of this like the center of a clock with the hands radiation outwards. This will maintain the dart's position, and the fabric grainline more easily.

You will need to release the dart pins that are in place from the waistline to the point below the dart point. As you smooth the fabric, the dart should pivot a bit away from that original location. This is forming the dart's tuck of excess fabric.

Pin out the remaining waistline seam, side seams, neckline, shoulder and sleeve.


Edges: Run the tracing wheel to mark those edges. You may need to release some pins that are pulling the shape in order to get the sleeve and neckline shape. Just take care to
- work flat and smooth
- keep the fabric on grain, don't stretch it on the bias or make it 'crooked'.

When you remove the garment, this is what the back view should resemble. Reinforce the pattern wheel punched lines with a pencil and ruler. The CB line can be folded, so that your draft has both sides.

This is the front pattern that was drafted in the same way.


Button front: Where is center line if there are buttons? This line usually runs down the center of the button line (or the dot where each button is sewn in place). You can make a pin 'punch' where each button is centered.

NOTE: I worked the front pattern from the good side of the garment. You can see that the fabric pattern and details are facing out. I did this to make the buttons, collar and cuff easier to see.

When using this method, I did not pre-draft the CF line because it is under my dress front and I can't see it. I drafted the CF line after removing the dress from the paper. I had a row of pin punches to denote that CF line, so it was easy to find.

Front Neckline: This is pinned, then traced down that line. You can add pin 'punch' marks at each end to note the exact length.


Collars and Cuffs: How can I draft these shapes? These are the easiest pieces to work with. Just flatten each onto the paper, and pin flat and smooth. You can trace the outside edges with a pencil, and use the pattern wheel to outline the seam where it is sewn into the dress.


NOTE: As you draft, remember that these are seam lines, and you will need to add your seam allowances to this pattern. Generally these are 1/2" in the fashion industry, and 5/8" for home sewing patterns.

NOTE:
A seasoned patternmaker once told me "There's more than one way to skin a cat".
Meaning: This is only one method to produce similar results. As you work and gain experience, you may develop different techniques. Or perhaps you will be taught a different method by someone else. Regardless, as long as the technique produces the desired results, any way is OK.

Going Further:

Fit Sample:
Cut a fitting sample from the same type of fabric as your vintage dress. My dress is simple cotton, so any cotton or plain muslin will work in this case. I will add side seam allowance to make a 1" seam allowance at each side. I recommend this in case you need more room during the fitting.

Draw the seam lines from your pattern onto the muslin in a red sharpie or marker, and it will be easy to follow. With the fitting, use a 2nd color marker to show new alterations. Transfer those new seamlines into a 2nd pattern. If you don't need to make many changes, this 2nd pattern should be ready to use with your fashion fabric.

SEWING the DRESS:
The following vintage sewing posts may help you to sew your dress:

How to sew Flat Lining

How to sew a Fitted Bust Dart

The Party Dress Book by Mary Adams: a Book Review

Sewing dresses is a great creative outlet, but for many who sew, coming up with ideas and trying to make them real is a big challenge. Finding vintage inspired fashion to sew can be difficult as well. "The Party Dress Book by Mary Adams" is a great source for new and vintage concepts and ideas for sewing dresses. It has a whimsical bent, with styles that you won't find in a store. Rather, the focus is on dream-like and fantasy looks with a vintage 1950's or Victorian or Marie Antionette kind of style.



The sewing techniques shown in this little book range from layering sheers, applying bias strips, ruffles, applique and other textures. By using opaque and sheer fabrics, many unusual and fanciful effects are created. The author reviews each type of texture in detail, showing how it can enhance a surface and provide richness and visual interest.





Bodice and skirt details are shown from the author's collection. There is a significant portion of the book devoted to the author's background and artistic profile. This is not always what someone looking for sewing ideas is willing to read, but it does provide an interesting viewpoint and career outline that some may find inspiring.



The final book chapters provide a pattern with directions for making a dress. This is a princess line bodice and circle skirt dress, which is especially good for detailing with textures and color.

The pattern itself may seem complicated for a beginner to work with, but similar patterns are available in purchased patterns, if that approach is easier. In fact, a purchased pattern might provide helpful supplementary sewing instructions not given in the book.

This bodice is shown without boning, which will make it soft, without structure. With this style, shoulder straps are essential. I am guessing the author left out boning to make the pattern easier. Having a purchased pattern may help to advise the sewer who wants a boned bodice instead.


I highly recommend this book as a source of inspiration, along with a great series of tutorials on how to create texture and visual interest when sewing fashion. This is something that has been left out of fashion sewing in recent years, so for many this may be a first peak into new territory for sewing.

Book: The Party Dress Book, How to Sew the Best Dress in the Room
Author: Mary Adams
Publisher: Watson-Guptill, 2010
Binding: spiral bound

Skill level: Intermediate
(With a purchased pattern, this book could be used by someone who has fit and sewn a dress or two successfully, and is ready to be more creative.)

Suggested:
This book will appeal to anyone who loves fanciful and creative fashion.
It is the perfect engagement gift for a creative bride to be.
This is equally fun as a 'look book' for someone who doesn't sew but loves new ideas.
It is also an interesting read to learn about the author's own career in the arts and fashion.

Supplimentary Patterns:
The following commercial patterns may be used when making the dress shown in this book.

Princess bodice, with sweet-heart neckline:
Simplicity 4070
New Look 6805

Princess bodice, with flat neckline:
Butterick 5322
Butterick 4443
Simplicity 2440

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