Vintage Details: Rudi Gernreich: 2 Kabuki Dresses, Autumn 1963

It's not often that we get a chance to see two vintage dresses that are from the same collection: similar in design, but different in fabrication.

Rudi Gernreich produced a wide range of innovative designs during his career, but the Kabuki dress remains one of the most recognizable. Designed in 1963 for his Autumn collection, it is a wool double knit with body drape. What made it so unique was the eye popping textile colors and the innovative bodice 'obi' belting across the bustline.

As early as 1954, when in his early 30’s, Gernreich was noted for his colorful, geometric, and unique styling. His styles are highly influenced by the flapper silhouette of the 1920’s, which was a departure from the hourglass look being designed in Paris by Dior. In 1951 he began working for Walter Bass, a California manufacturer. There he became well known for contemporary clothing design.

He created boxy jackets and tight pants and other clothing styles that would become more commonplace in the early 1960’s but were considered bold, sophisticated, and shocking 10 years earlier.

Like Claire McCardell and Bonnie Cashin, he was influenced by Asian garment styles. As a designer he felt that he was a practicing artist, where aesthetics were important. He also believed that a good design need not be discarded after only one season.



Wool knit textiles were produced by Harmon knitwear. In the early 1960's his color sense and ability to manipulate textile graphics were becoming popular. The bold colors and patterns here predict the trend in fashion that would become mainstream by the late 1960's and early 1970's.



And finally, a quick look at the inside construction. The obi section is backed by cotton broadcloth to prevent it from stretching out of shape.


(click on the photos so see enlargements)
Please contact me if you wish to use these photos, thank you

Fall is Sweater Time: Pringle Cashmere

Cashmere and Pringle sweaters are a great combination that is getting harder to find. The weight and texture has made them a favorite knit and it's become impossible to pass up a vintage cashmere while cruising a good estate sale.


Recently I came across a great video for a recent exhibition, "From Hawick to Hollywood: the Women who wore Pringle". This looks at mid-century Pringle knits and is exhibited in Hawick, Scotland where Pringle is made. Wallace Shaw, who designed for Pringle between 1972 and 1978 shares his impressions about Pringle during that time. The gorgeous sweaters shown here are all from that video.

The Pringle webpage and video are ”HERE”.


Don't these gorgeous cashmere knits make you want seek out Pringles? I know I do!
Also, I have to credit Lizzie at ”The Vintage Traveler” for sending me on this little journey into Scottish textiles. I have enjoyed every minute, and will share more with you later.

Breakfast at Tiffany's: 50th anniversary

Fifty years ago Breakfast at Tiffany's captured an era and a generation, distilling glamour and charm into one amazing film.

It's never to late to join in the fun, especially with a bright orange coat, so Holly
Golightly! You can have your own from our Pintuck Style shop: HERE.

History of California's Fashion Industry: Part 1

The 1920’s is a good place to begin a brief look into the California apparel industry. The decade began with a new but strong apparel business in Southern California so that by 1921, "The Associated Apparel Manufactures of Los Angeles" was organized. It would offer a bureau of information for area manufacturers. The organization also provided a buyer’s office for out of town buyers who would arrive by train from the east coast and other points in the country, to see fashions during market week. There was also an employment bureau to help provide the labor needed to produce the goods within the region.

Included with the "Associated Apparel" group was smaller organization called the “California Fashion Creators”. They were known to stage fashion shows at movie star's homes, providing an early link to the movie industry. The synergy between fashion and Hollywood continued to develop and grow during this decade.

In 1926, an industry organization called the "Affiliated Fashionists" was organized by six women who owned design firms. They would promote their fashions by hosting many social events and fashion shows. The original members were Irene Bury, Viola Dimmitt, Peggy Hunt***, Violet Tatum*, Pat Perkins*, Marjorie Montgomery**, and later Addie Masters**, Louella Ballernio, Agnes Barrett, and Mabs Barnes. All of these names and labels were important to the growing reputation for fashion that Los Angeles would market throughout the U.S.

San Fransicso in the 1920’s also had a fashion industry group, with such members as Dolly Meyers and Harvey Rothschild. In 1951 this group was still strong, producing fashion shows in Union Square.

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* retired early
**still in business in 1962
***businesses pre-1962, 25 years or more

Resources:
The information in this series comes from my thesis.
Most primary references are from "California Stylist" and the "Los Angeles Times".

This is original material and may not be reproduced without my permission.
Please contact me here at PintuckStyle if you would like to quote all or part for your own use, thank you.

A note on the image used in this post:
This is a commercial photo.
My father has written a note about it based on his own years in L.A.:
"Looking north on Broadway. This was the main intersection in L.A."

The 18th Century (is) Back in Fashion

VERSAILLE has an exhibition up right now that shows the influence of 18th century fashion on current design. Titled "The 18th Century Back in Fashion" (I find this awkward translation adorable) there is a colorful website devoted to the show that has several great resources. I love the exhibition BROCHURE which has gorgeous photos and designer information. And don't miss the FRENCH VOGUE website with its videos. Even though I can't understand a word of French, the visuals are still stunning!

Vintage Detail: Red Silk Dress c. 1960

This dress is fully lined. The hem appears to have been shortened. All beaded has been sewn by hand around the neckline and wrists of the long sleeves. The waistline has piping to match. Small hooks and thread loops are sewn at the neckline and waist of the center back metal zipper.

click on the photos to enlarge themr

Featuring a 1970's Dress, "Jerry Silverman" label

JERRY SILVERMAN by SAULINO

The designer label "Jerry Silverman" showcased wrap dresses during the 1970's that were trimmed with UltraSuede. This deep peacock blue matte jersey wrap dress has UltraSuede used in the yoke, at the hip, shoulders and collar. The drapey matte jersey is shown in a Halston-style bodice. This dress has a distinctive look that is higher in quality than most of the 1970 jerseys we see today.

Style details:
Ultra Suede
scluptured hip yoke with mock buckle
banded wrap front and collar
rounded shoulder yoke
rounded wrist cuffs with hook closure

matte jersey
gathers around the shoulder yoke
gathers around the hip yoke (skirt is nearly a half circle)
- dress is unlined, and is meant to have a draped bodice

About Jerry Silverman

It's interesting to note that Jerry Silverman began his career as a Harvard trained New York lawyer in 1933. He made a career switch to fashion in 1938, working for "Martini Designer" and becoming an owner before joining the military in WWII. After the war in 1946 he met his future business partner, Shannon Rodgers, a former Hollywood costume designer. Together they formed "Jerry Silverman" in 1959. Rodgers was the designer for this new venture of high end women's fashion. A dynamic team, they attended the couture shows in Paris to keep on up with current trends. Their dresses were popular with first ladies of the day, along with countless New York wives. The "Jerry Silverman" label was later bought by Warnaco, yet Silverman continued to be still involved. Silverman and Rodgers were active in promoting American design and supported fashion education, donating their huge historical fashion collection to Kent State.

Ultrasuede, early 1970’s

Probably the most important fashion textile development of the 1970’s was Ultrasuede, by Dr. Okamoto at Toray in 1970. This was the first mircrofiber, an ultra fine fiber that would continue in development as it produced softer fabrics. Ultrasuede was an expensive washable alternative to suede, and became popular in higher priced fashion during the decade of the 1970's. Designers such as Halston would make this a fashionable textile, using it in his shirt dresses and jackets.

Find more information on this designing duo HERE.

Find this lovely dress HERE.

Asher Fabrics: Couture Fashion, 1958

Ascher, London has posted five couture fashion portfolios from 1958. These scrapbooks with photos showcase designs using the original textiles by Zika Ascher, including mohair fabrics that Ascher was developing. It is wonderful to look through each collection. They captures the couture look from that year so well.

Also on this site is a gorgeous gallery of Ascher Scarves from the mid-1940's that were designed by known artists of the day.

Ascher Fabric Couture Collections, 1958

Haute Couture, Paris: Spring and Winter
Cardin
Desses
Givenchy
Griffe
Heim
Lanvin-Castillo
Laroche
Matta
Riviere
Rouff

Haute Couture, London: Winter
Cavanagh
Cardin
Paterson
Riviere

Alta Moda, Florence: Spring and Winter
Antonelli
Baratta
Capucci
Carosa
De Luca
Fabiani
Simonetta

(a special thanks to BonBon Atelier for reminding me of this collection)

Vintage Simplicity Sewing Patterns: 1958

Vintage sewing patterns are a great resource to have. Whether I am trying to date a dress, or looking for new ideas, I just can get enough of them!

Mena Trott of Sew Weekly recently found a Simplicity 1958 pattern book. She has posted page after page on flickr for all of us to see. It's great fun to view these, and what's even better, the back views are there too. How often do we need to get those details and they aren't available? I think you'll enjoy this new resource, and if you're unfamiliar with Sew Weekly you may want to check that out too.

(the Simplicity pattern shown in this post is from my own collection)