Early 1970's Fashion Illustrations: Styles and Silhouettes

Simplcity Sewing Patterns, Spring, 1972
These simple line drawings were probably drawn using strong black India ink and a quill pen or Rapideograph pen (an early for-runner of ink pens, with an inner reservoir for ink). They tend to run 9.5 heads in height which was beginning to show popularity at the time, over the more realistic 8.5 heads.

Bonnie Cashin: Brass Twist Locks on Vintage Coats and Jackets

This 1970's kid skin leather short coat by Bonnie Cashin sports her signature twist locks that she adapted from canvas boat fastenings in the 1950's. This illustration is from a brochure published by Gene Burton shop on Lake Ave. in Pasadena, CA during the 1970's. From it we find that this leather coat retailed for $200 and came in white, sand, redwing red, navy, lemon yellow or sandstone.

Shown below are some examples of the twist locks used on many of her coat designs. You will also notice the extensive use of leathers in her fabrications.





Here's a peak at the inside:

1972: Prom and Party Styles

The two Simplicity patterns shown here date from Spring, 1972 and include textile swatches suggested for each pattern style.

Simplicity 9725 was part of a young looking group called "Young Contemporary Fashion". It included styles that seemed to be currently selling in the market for juniors. Fabric suggestions include 50% polyester/50% rayon blend wovens in a sheer leno stripe weave. The midriff waistline with flutter sleeves was influenced by the vintage 1930's styles popular at that time.

Simplicity 9709 is a bit more mature, from the "Designer Fashion" collection (no name mentioned in this promotional group). It was suggested for patio parties and proms. The black bodice shows up often during this era, worn over bright abstract or floral patterns. The fabrics shown here are 75% acetate/25% nylon in a textured 'terry cloth' texture on a velour knit. Bright solids are paired with very graphic prints inspired by Pucci and patchwork quilts.

Spring 1972: 40 Years Ago, Sportswear Patterns and Fabric

Forty years ago, Simplicity pattern company produced a guide to Spring 1972 teen fashions along with textiles suitable for each pattern. This first pattern (Simplicity 9650) features a safari outfit, with shorts or flare leg pants. Style suggestions include adding a 'rugged leather belt', neck scarf or hat.

Colorful denim is advised for sewing this outfit. These swatches are 50% Kodel polyester / 50% cotton in 44-45" widths. Popular colors are simple primaries: red, light blue and classic denim blue. Naturals in brown with a coordinate stripe offer an alternative to the brights.

These illustrations were produced for Spring 1972 in a large format portfolio of pattern pages opposite the swatch pages. The portfolio is titled "Teen Fashion Environment" and was produced by the W.T. Grant company, a discount chain store that carried fabric and sewing patterns in small towns across the U.S.

Featuring a 1970's Dress, "Jerry Silverman" label

JERRY SILVERMAN by SAULINO

The designer label "Jerry Silverman" showcased wrap dresses during the 1970's that were trimmed with UltraSuede. This deep peacock blue matte jersey wrap dress has UltraSuede used in the yoke, at the hip, shoulders and collar. The drapey matte jersey is shown in a Halston-style bodice. This dress has a distinctive look that is higher in quality than most of the 1970 jerseys we see today.

Style details:
Ultra Suede
scluptured hip yoke with mock buckle
banded wrap front and collar
rounded shoulder yoke
rounded wrist cuffs with hook closure

matte jersey
gathers around the shoulder yoke
gathers around the hip yoke (skirt is nearly a half circle)
- dress is unlined, and is meant to have a draped bodice

About Jerry Silverman

It's interesting to note that Jerry Silverman began his career as a Harvard trained New York lawyer in 1933. He made a career switch to fashion in 1938, working for "Martini Designer" and becoming an owner before joining the military in WWII. After the war in 1946 he met his future business partner, Shannon Rodgers, a former Hollywood costume designer. Together they formed "Jerry Silverman" in 1959. Rodgers was the designer for this new venture of high end women's fashion. A dynamic team, they attended the couture shows in Paris to keep on up with current trends. Their dresses were popular with first ladies of the day, along with countless New York wives. The "Jerry Silverman" label was later bought by Warnaco, yet Silverman continued to be still involved. Silverman and Rodgers were active in promoting American design and supported fashion education, donating their huge historical fashion collection to Kent State.

Ultrasuede, early 1970’s

Probably the most important fashion textile development of the 1970’s was Ultrasuede, by Dr. Okamoto at Toray in 1970. This was the first mircrofiber, an ultra fine fiber that would continue in development as it produced softer fabrics. Ultrasuede was an expensive washable alternative to suede, and became popular in higher priced fashion during the decade of the 1970's. Designers such as Halston would make this a fashionable textile, using it in his shirt dresses and jackets.

Find more information on this designing duo HERE.

Find this lovely dress HERE.