History of California's Fashion Industry: Part 1

The 1920’s is a good place to begin a brief look into the California apparel industry. The decade began with a new but strong apparel business in Southern California so that by 1921, "The Associated Apparel Manufactures of Los Angeles" was organized. It would offer a bureau of information for area manufacturers. The organization also provided a buyer’s office for out of town buyers who would arrive by train from the east coast and other points in the country, to see fashions during market week. There was also an employment bureau to help provide the labor needed to produce the goods within the region.

Included with the "Associated Apparel" group was smaller organization called the “California Fashion Creators”. They were known to stage fashion shows at movie star's homes, providing an early link to the movie industry. The synergy between fashion and Hollywood continued to develop and grow during this decade.

In 1926, an industry organization called the "Affiliated Fashionists" was organized by six women who owned design firms. They would promote their fashions by hosting many social events and fashion shows. The original members were Irene Bury, Viola Dimmitt, Peggy Hunt***, Violet Tatum*, Pat Perkins*, Marjorie Montgomery**, and later Addie Masters**, Louella Ballernio, Agnes Barrett, and Mabs Barnes. All of these names and labels were important to the growing reputation for fashion that Los Angeles would market throughout the U.S.

San Fransicso in the 1920’s also had a fashion industry group, with such members as Dolly Meyers and Harvey Rothschild. In 1951 this group was still strong, producing fashion shows in Union Square.

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* retired early
**still in business in 1962
***businesses pre-1962, 25 years or more

Resources:
The information in this series comes from my thesis.
Most primary references are from "California Stylist" and the "Los Angeles Times".

This is original material and may not be reproduced without my permission.
Please contact me here at PintuckStyle if you would like to quote all or part for your own use, thank you.

A note on the image used in this post:
This is a commercial photo.
My father has written a note about it based on his own years in L.A.:
"Looking north on Broadway. This was the main intersection in L.A."

Pioneers in California Fashion: Peggy Hunt and the Affliliated Fashionists

California fashion industry was well under way by the 1920's. Los Angeles had found its niche in two important local businesses: Hollywood and Tourism. This meant that by creating a strong brand identification with both the luxury of resort and sun sports, along with Hollywood and the glamour associated with it, a new identification was found for a growing apparel industry in the region.

During the 1920’s, the fashion industry saw several new trade and marketing organizations develop. The Associated Apparel Manufacturers of Los Angeles and the California Fashion Creators were important firsts during this decade of growth. The Fashion Creators would stage fashion shows at movie star homes to market new designs to the public.

By 1921 the Associated Apparel Manufactures of Los Angeles established a bureau of information, employment office, and a buyers office for out of town buyers. This meant that the fashion industry now had a core or 'go to' for information and marketing events.

In 1926, a group of 6 female designers, who owned their own businesses, formed the Affiliated Fashionist group. Its purpose was to promote their companies with many social events and fashion shows, often staged in the designer's homes, around a pool or outdoor Los Angeles theme. The first members were: Irene Bury, Viola Dimmitt, Peggy Hunt, Violet Tatum, Pat Perkins, Marjorie Montgomery, Addie Masters, Louella Ballernio, Agnes Barrett, and Mabs Barnes. Nearly 40 years later (in 1962) Peggy Hunt, Marjorie Montgomery, and Addie Masters were still in business. Violet Tatum and Pat Perkins had retired from the group early.

Several members, such as Mabs Barnes, who in 1933 would create the Satin lastex swimsuit with a one-piece skirt panel in front and bustline fit, went on to design important innovations and trends. Addie Masters specialized in glamorous, yet casual at home fashions with a “wrap-rascal” dress and hostess trousers in 1939.

In September of 1946, the group staged a fashion show at Peggy Hunt’s estate that was attended by 400 guests and showcased 72 styles. Resort and cruise wear fashions predominated. Ethel Joutras was the co-ordinating director of the event where the following fashions were featured:

Addie Masters: cover-up group in black and white, exercise suit that was a one-piece play suit with shorts and blouse

Marjorie Montgomery: play suit in turquoise

Viola Dimmitt: raincoat-dress, a coat that could be worn as a dress, made from black nylon

Agness Barrett: slacks and fashions with a Mexican color theme

Mabs Barnes: lingerie

Peggy Hunt: black crepe with nude sheers, and a junior line with Children and Teen styles, and another group called "Jean Carol" that featured women’s dresses. During WWII, actress Deanna Durbin was costumed in a ‘Jean Carol’ label for a movie. Peggy was the first to show sheer-yoke cocktail dresses.

Jeannette Alexander: dresses with a focus on the young sophisticate (Jeannette Alexander was Peggy Hunt’s daughter)

A press release in 1948, showed that at that time there were 8 designer members in the group. They were following Paris trends with 12” hems for day, and 9,10,11” for night. At this event, Peggy Hunt showed lace and marquisette accents and floor length gowns.

Louella Ballerino presented “American Gothic” dresses with subdued coloring. In 1950 she would show drapery prints in her dresses. Her styles were part of an "Americana" trend that may have spun off of the success of the musical "Oklahoma" in 1943. Agnes Barrett, like Louella presented nostalgic styles with a Victorian look that included braid trims, tucks, and skirts that flared in back.

Marjorie Montgomery designed for college girls with new looks in dolman sleeves, petal collars and cuffs, and easy skirts. Irene Bury kept to her classics and showed an afternoon dress in a green and white stripe.

Louella Ballerino also showed resort sportswear featuring a strapless bra in a black and white print, white shorts, with wrap skirt. Addie Masters continued her casual resort wear with at-home fashions in crepe of tangerines and pinks.

Mabs Barnes had little change in her now popular swimwear styles, but she did feature new colors and fabrics, with control panties, and girdles.

Viola Dimmett's coats were water repellent with full backs and some hoods, worn belted or loose, styles that made her label a big seller.

From the early years of the 20th century through to the 1960's, growth for a new apparel industry in southern California was enhanced by these innovative fashion pioneers. They are partly responsible for the strong brand identification that California fashion has in the world. They promoted their designs with marketing innovations that proved successful, creating a California "style" that local designers today still rely on.

The cocktail dress shown here by Peggy Hunt features her well known nude sheer yoke and black silk chiffon with bias cascade. It probably dates from the late 1950's or early 1960's.

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