NY Public Library: Fashion in the Files

Here is a fashion design from 1939 that includes both front, back and schematic views. You can find more like this in the New York Public Library digital gallery collection. Just enter your search terms. "Costume", "fashion", "sewing" are some good terms to try out. If you use an image, be sure to credit the collection. When it comes to eras, the entire 20th century is often a single category (rather than by each decade).

In this collection you will find more fashion designs like this, book illustrations, and photos. The Andre fashion illustration collection from the 1930's and 40's is a great style resource for that era. The designs include coats, suits and dresses by the Andre Fashion Studios. Most are from the 1930's. This is a huge collection of 5,415 images (so plan to fall down the rabbit hole with this link!).

Paris Buttonholes the Mode: 1930's

This fashion magazine page from the early 1930's plays up some great ways to use buttons. The slinky, slender silhouette of that era looks great with the sleeve variations shown here, some sporting button accents. Neckline and shoulder yokes, sleeve cuffs, pockets and shoulder straps have buttons as well.

Part of what makes the look so elegant is the accessories. Their gauntlet gloves really have great style. And it would be hard to miss those jaunty little hats worn at an angle over the forehead with a bit of finger waved hairstyle peeking below.

1938 Surrealistic Fashion Illustration by Wilena

Surrealistic fashion illustration, from about 1938, signed by Wilena.

1930's: On the Beach

On the beach in the early 1930's. Staying cool in style!

Vintage Dress: late 1930's to early 1940's

Dating vintage dresses can be fun, with so many clues to find hidden in the dress. The vintage dress shown here dates from the late 1930's through early 1940's. It is of black crepe, cut with a skirt that has 10 gores sewn to the hip yoke. This fanciful design was lost when WWII rations controlled skirt yardage. In addition, it has 2 metal zippers by Talon: one at the back neckline, and the other in the left side seam. These are typical locations for zippers during that era. The metal zippers would become unavailable during the war years, so we can assume this dress was made prior to 1942.

The photos below give some close-up views showing the details of both bodice and skirt. These details can help when trying to create reproductions. They also provide inspiration when designing modern fashions with a hint of vintage.


The bodice bows are set on very small pockets where the yoke meets the crepe bodice. The striped yoke and sleeves are made from 1/4" wide strips of the crepe fabric, sewn to a sheer black backing.


The skirt has 3 gores in back and 7 in front. The hip yoke is cut in one with the center gore, creating a "T" shaped panel. The length is original to the dress, with an inch deep hem. There are signs of belt loops at each side seam.

Bodice shirring in 5 rows creates gathers at the waistline. These provide the fit without darts because the entire bodice is cut on the bias.





Measurements:
bustline = 42" around
waistline = 33" around
hipline = 40" around
bodice length = 17" from shoulder, over bust to waistline
skirt length = 27" from waistline to hem at side seam
sleeve length = 5" at side seam
sleeve width = 12" around at cuff
hem line circumference = 84" around

Available at PintuckStyle on Etsy

1930's Vintage Fashion: Turn Around to See the Back View

Fashion during the 1930's was cut with diagonal bias seams to be smooth and slinky. The back view of a dress was often its best feature. These illustrations are from an old scrap book of mine, so I can't give you the exact dates, however most are from the early half of this decade. These fashion illustrations are just a peek into the wide range of back views seen during that time.

If you are dating a vintage dress that seems to be from this era, check out the back, that may help determine what decade it is from even more than the front view. And if you are going to sew for summer, why not consider adding some back interest to your project, that could make it something special.

1930's Women's Pants: Polka Dots and Sailor Styles

Wide leg pants are showing up in fashion again, affected by the 1970's influences currently affecting trends. The sailor styles we saw during the 1970's had their origins in the 1930's when women began to wear 'beach pajamas' and men's tailored trousers.

The women's beach pajamas illustrated here date from the early 1930's (some are dated 1931), and show how women were able to choose from a wide variety of style details and looks. Most interesting to me is the white double breasted suit. Who says YSL was the first to put women in pant suits? Here's a great example from nearly 40 years earlier!

So be inspired, this silhouette has alot to offer and is a great change of pace from the skinny jeans we have seen for the past few years.

1940's Hawaiian styles and Lauren Bacall

Audree Gay Creations, California, c. late 1930's through 1940's

I saw the Alfred Shaheen exhibit of Hawaiian fashions recently and it brought to mind this sultry gown in an aloha print fabric. The fashion styling blends a bit of Pacific sarong skirt with a mainland cowl neck top. A flash of midriff is seen between the skirt and cropped top that is held in place by the insertion of a center front tab, attaching the skirt to bodice. This cocktail or evening style would have been a sensation on the dance floor of the WWII era ball room or private patio party.

It is made from a fine navy blue rayon crepe with white floral design, to immitate the better Japanese kabe crepe that was first imported and later inspired the Hawaiian tropicals of the 1930's and 1940's pre-war years.


To Have and Have Not,1944, Lauren Bacall, designer Milo Anderson (1910-1984)

The aloha print rayon dress is similar to a sleek version of the same style by Milo Anderson for Lauren Bacall in 1944. Her sarong skirt and midriff top are linked (literally) by a metal ring: a style that would take fire in the 1970's. Her top is more artfully custom draped, but the overall sense of style is still the same: bared midriff with a tropical front draped skirt.

It is interesting that this flattering style is so seldom seen in fashion. The concept is a perfect example of 'less is more' when it comes to body exposure!

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