1964 Bold Wool Checks

The fashion illustrations here date from 1964. They feature shaped wool suits with bold checks. It's hard to think of a more classic 60's wool than hounds tooth, and here it is in full splendor. As examples of mid-1960's fashion, 3/4 sleeves (worn with long gloves) are almost equal to the short jacket length. The rolled collars are heavily interfaced to achieve that carefully curved line. The jackets probably have self covered buttons, in a bold, large scale typical of the Jackie O era.

Most likely drawn using colored chalk on an egg shell finish bond paper, these drawings have a glowing effect achieved by carefully controlling the lighting. For illustrating checks, these illustrations offer great inspiration and show how to not over-draw the details, rather how to suggest an overall effect to a better advantage.

When I can indentify the illustrator, I'll add that information here.

Let's Talk About: Categories of Women's Fashion

Women's Fashion Categories

When a designer works, are they making fashions for themselves? Rarely. More often the business is focused on a specific target customer and what she wants to buy. It is this person that the designer will produce designs for.

Most fashion companies have a specific type of garment that they are best known for. They don't 'jump' around and produce all different kinds of fashions. They will work hard to become well known in a certain category of fashion that is based on style and price. This is will be available at a limited type of store or web site where the target customer will shop.

How the ideal target customer plans their wardrobe, then finds and pays for it influences the design business. The kind of styles that are being made should fall into a category of fashion that relates to price, quality and where it is to be sold. In women's fashion there are several major customer categories where most apparel is found. The most common categories are:

Designer: This is an affluent shopper with little or no budget restraints. They are looking for unique fashions that are often introduced before most trends. They commonly want designer labels that demand a high price and are sold at high end boutiques or exclusive department stores.

Contemporary or Ready-to-Wear Bridge: This is also a higher priced fashion, but it is more available and less expensive than a designer's top label. This is the category where a famous designer's ready-to-wear fashions can be found. Department stores and boutiques will sell this product to a wider range of customers than the high end designer labels. Some of the types of apparel found in this category are: sportswear items such as tops and bottoms, career wear, dresses, lingerie, knits, sportswear, after 5 and special occasion dresses.

Missy : The missy shopper wants styles that are current in fashion, but not too outrageous or unusual. She loves fashion but doesn’t want to experiment with ideas that are unfamiliar, too sexy or dramatic. She may think the styles she buys are the latest designs because she often too busy to keep up with fashion week, runway reports or high fashion magazines. She has a budge so her price range is moderate and the labels she buys may be a well know brand’s more affordable product. The missy customer also looks for apparel that is easy to maintain, clean and wear. Most women’s apparel is available in this category: careerwear, sportswear, dresses, knits, denim, lingerie, special occasion and active wear.

Budget: This customer is looking for current fashion trends at a low price. They are not concerned with fine fabrics, expensive details and construction elements that might require a higher price. They want styles that look like what they see in the media, but are copied to be less expensive. These are the styles that are popular and favored by many people and could be fads that are happening at the time. Fashions in this category may be sold in chain and discount stores. This price bracket usually offers a more limited product selection: sportswear, tops and bottoms, casual dresses, work-out, knits, maternity, active wear, lingerie and sleepwear.

Junior: Although this is an ‘age’ category, it tends to attract a wide range of target customers who are from the early teens through adults in their fifties. The main criteria can sometimes be fit because the junior category usually has a shorter waist, smaller bustline and more narrow hips than the missy customer. The fabrics, colors and styles in this category are usually not classics. Styles are often those trends in high demand for a short time (fads). Because of the short term of use, this type of apparel may not be practical, durable or functional enough for long term wear. Seasonal apparel is most common with juniors who buy tops and bottoms, knits, casual dresses and special occasion during the holiday and prom season.

-------------------

Finding out more:

Now that you have read this article, what do you already know about the categories of women's fashions explained here? Try expanding on this article by listing brands, stores and websites for each category. It's also interesting to compare similar products. For this, select one type of apparel (white "T" shirt or denim jeans is good) then go online to find fashions for sale in various categories and price ranges (don't use sale items, find them at their full price). After looking at this, what category do you feel you would like to work in? Start making a file on this category with the top brands you see selling there and begin to study their product so you can become very familiar with the styles in it.

This original article on women's fashion categories is part 8 of a series on fashion design that are posted here at Pintucks. The contents of this article are the intellectual property of this blog. Please do not copy any content to another blog or digital media without contacting me first. I will ask that you link back to this article and give reference to this source within your feature. If you are using content for a research paper or project, please link back to this page in the traditional academic format, thank you!

the photo shown here is from the mid-1980's

Australian Home Journal: Online Resource

Aren't these fashions from the 1940's and 50's delightful? They come from the terrific online source for "Australian Home Journal", 1949 - 1952.

In the "read online" format it can be viewed like a book with turning pages, or tiled. Personally I like the tiles best, since it's easy to scan the issue and enlarge only the pages you want to see.

Each issue has a few dress patterns. They are drawn in small scale, but are helpful if you want to copy a look from the magazine. Have fun with this site, you'll find it a great source for fashion for the average girl, guy and child during this era.

I want to thank Caitlin at "3:50 From Central" for pointing out this great fashion resource to me on her blog.

Sewing Tip: Dart Marking & Sewing

Cutting out and transferring dart markings can take up an entire evening. This method uses a minimum of fussing with the paper pattern and fabric layers.

To start, immediately after cutting out the pattern piece, stop and 'stab' a pin through all layers at each dot on the paper pattern that you want to transfer. Push the pins in straight (not slanted).

When all dots have pins in them, flip open the two fabric layers (step 2). You will see the pin passing through both fabrics. While the pin is in place, RUB a chalk (or fabric pencil) over the pin just where it enters the fabric (step 3). This will leave a tiny mark that is easy to see.

After marking the pins, remove the pattern from your fabric. Open the pattern piece flat on the work table. For each dart, mark the dart point with a + so you can see exactly where the point should be and the stitch line will stop. Fold through this +, creasing down the center length of the dart to the bottom edge where the notch clips can be matched.

Once the dart is folded, it's time to pin the dart together. Align the dots by weaving a pin in at one mark and out through the other mark. Then pull the dart together along the fold (step 5). This will be certain that both dots are aligned and match up. Use a second pin to pin both layers together, then remove the first pin.

It helps to be sure all pins are perpendicular to the sewing line. This will allow the sewing machine can sew across those pins easily. When you sew a fitting garment, be sure to use the largest stitch length, and contrast colored thread so you can easily remove the stitching if needed.

Sewing Tip: Cutting out a Pattern

I was cutting out a fitting muslin and thought I would share a few tips for making the cutting and marking go faster. First and foremost, I use weights to hold my pattern down when I cut. I think getting away from the labor of pinning is essential! I make my own by filling cute containers and even cups with coins. It's a nice way to use the odd gift mug that you have sitting around unused. I also like tins with lids. If you haven't tried this method, you are in for a big treat, it's sooo easy!

I am making a fitting sample of this 50's inspired coat, Butterick 5824, that is part of a group sew-along at Gertie's New Blog for Better Sewing. I'll be sharing more of this with you as I go along. It's a fun looking coat, and should be easy to sew (no sleeves to set-in!).

Tomorrow I will share a few marking techniques that I like to use. Everyone seems to have their own way of getting those pattern markings on to their fabric, and I will show you how I like to work that out.

Let's Talk About: Target Customers

the Target Customer

One of the most critical moments in designing fashion is creating a concept that will sell to a specific shopper. This person or group is called the Target Customer. It is for them that designers struggle to find the perfect idea that will make up into the accessory or garment that this shopper cannot pass up and must buy. Without this center figure, the fashions would hang forever, unsold and neglected.

So how does the design room define this person or group? They are different for each company. Every brand has its own ideal shopper. The personality profile includes: age, income, size range, personal style and preferences, lifestyle and location, career and hobbies.

By defining these details, a customer type can be identified. With that in mind, it is easier to eliminate designs that aren’t suitable, and to develop designs that are. Will the customer like this? Will they wear that? These are the questions that the designer will be asked when they present their line to the company manager or owner.

Let’s start with an imaginary target customer. We can easily think of a real person who loves fashion that we know. From this we can identify their age range, financial profile, size and build, likes and dislikes in style, color and trend, what they do for a living, where they live and how they like to spend their free time. This is the core of a target customer profile.

But we need to look further. Where and how they shop is a key issue. What type of retail stores do they buy their clothing and accessories from? Today shoppers go to more than one source, so your target customer might have several stores, both online and ‘brick and morter’ that they like to shop at. They may also be loyal to several brands (and these might be your competition). Identify the brands they like for several garment categories. Also include the price range they pay when they shop.

Our next step is to determine why they are shopping. This can give us clues as to what they will want and how much selection they need to have. Someone whose only coat has torn will be looking for a coat because they NEED one. This is not an impulse buy, it is a requirement of their climate and lifestyle. Whether the coat has an on trend look, or is more conservative would be affected by the target customer’s income, lifestyle and preferences. One example might be that men by their socks because they need them, but women by their socks because they like the style and want them.

Other target customer purchases could be impulse based and might be an item that is attractive but not necessary to the target customer’s survival or life style. So, shopping patterns are important to the design room staff. By understanding these needs they can design a product that will fit the customer’s desires and be easier to sell.

Target Customer Profile

1. Sex and age range:
2. What type of community do they live in?
(Rural/country, small town, urban, large town, City/large town, or other )
3. U.S. region and climate that they live in? Are there climate extremes?:
4. What type of Figure do they have, including their height.
5. What do they do for a living? What is their Job or Career?
6. What is their level of Education or Training?
7. Annual Income, household, what is their income range?
8. What is their marriage status?
9. What is their family status, do they have children?
10. What kind of home do they live in? Do they rent or own?
11. Free time: Do they travel or take vacations? Does this affect their wardrobe?
12. What do they like to do in their free time? Do they have a favorite recreation or hobby?
13. Colors: What are their favorite colors for clothing? They may wear more than one color group, depending on the season
14. Personality type: How does this person relate on a social level? (Outgoing, confident/Quiet, shy/Intellectual, thoughtful/Sexy, social/Classic, traditional/Experimental, innovative)
15. Fashion type: How does this person adapt to trends and new fashion ideas? (Early adopter/Trend setter/ Trend follower/ Late trend follower / Not a trend follower
16. Stores and Shopping: where do they shop for apparel? List those stores. Fashion type: How does this person adapt to trends and new fashion ideas?
17. Brands and Designers: Do they look for certain brands or designers? List those for the top categories of apparel that they wear.
18. Information and Media: Where do they get their information on trends and styles?


The advertisement for Pendleton is from 1956 and shows their ideal target customer at that time, including her car and accessories.

This original article on the Target Customer is part 7 of a series on fashion design that are posted here at Pintucks. The contents of this article are the intellectual property of this blog. Please do not copy any content to another blog or digital media without contacting me first. I will ask that you link back to this article and give reference to this source within your feature. If you are using content for a research paper or project, please link back to this page in the traditional academic format, thank you!

Embroidered Folk Wear Tops

Fashion trends are inspired by the 1970's this fall. Peasant blouses and folk wear tunics embellished with embroidery are going strong. The fashions shown here are from 1972. These styles offer fun and inspiring ideas that can be applied to today's tops and blouses.

Machine and hand embroidery is making a come-back too. Embroidery is easy to learn and hand work is as portable as knitting or crochet. If that seems like too much trouble, you can add trims like the lower top seen here. It uses brocade ribbon down the sleeves and front. Vintage trims like this can be found online that would work perfectly in a peasant top. It's details like this that make sewing for yourself so rewarding. Or make this a holiday project and sew up a top as the perfect gift.

Sew your Party Dress: McCall's 6646

"The Party Dress Book by Mary Adams" has many inspiring styles of party dresses that are based on a simple princess seamed bodice. It includes creative tips for sewing your own special dress too. McCall's patterns has entered this arena with a dress pattern #6646 that is nearly identical to the pattern that is used in this book. It's a basic princess seamed bodice with sweet-heart neckline. The McCall's dress pattern has several bodice options and a gathered or "A" line type skirt.

Using the book and McCall's 6466 pattern might be the perfect mix. You'll get step-by-step help in making the bodice, which has boning for a great fit. This top may have straps or it can be worn strapless. The book has several great shoulder strap ideas that can be used instead. The McCall's version shows a ruched gathered bodice and a smooth fitted one, so the possibilities are limitless!

read "The Party Dress Book" review on Pintucks

Fern Violette: California Designer

This dress was designed by Fern Johnson Violette. She was born in 1920 in Montana, and grew up on a farm. At age 19, she married Ed Violette and had soon had a daughter. In her early 20’s they moved to Southern California to work in the aircraft factories during WWII.

After the war, Fern worked for a Los Angeles apparel manufacturer. While there she found that she was a natural for the fashion business. This inspired Fern to open her own company, under the “Fern Violette” label. She produced high-end women’s fashions from a location at 48 Market Street in Venice, California.

Later in her career, she hired Jay Morley, Jr. (1981 – 1997) to design for her. He is credited with his name on the label. Jay was the son of a well known actor from the early movie era and worked in the movie business as well. He had a prolific career from 1949 to 1957 as a low budget film costume designer, and is often given screen credit for his gowns. He was known to produce fashions that were more dramatic that Fern’s own earlier signature style.

Fern’s fashions are said to have been worn by Jackie Kennedy, among others. Her line was sold at Bloomingdale’s, Sak’s Fifth Ave, and the Los Angeles luxury store: Bullock’s Wilshire. She designed until the mid-1970’s when she retired with her husband and moved back to Montana where she lived until she passed away in 2010.

This "Fern Violette" design is a cotton two-piece dress, probably from the mid 1950's. It features a rolled collar with a "V" back.