Early 1970's Fashion Illustrations: Styles and Silhouettes

Simplcity Sewing Patterns, Spring, 1972
These simple line drawings were probably drawn using strong black India ink and a quill pen or Rapideograph pen (an early for-runner of ink pens, with an inner reservoir for ink). They tend to run 9.5 heads in height which was beginning to show popularity at the time, over the more realistic 8.5 heads.

Valentine Romance: late 1930's Fashion Illustration

All of the Victorian revival seen during the late 1930's seems to come together in these illustrations. Especially romantic, the long red dress with lace shawl and pouf skirt is a great look. The description for this dress is "fichu ball dress, out of a historical romance, cotton tulle and cotton lace".

Vintage Wedding Gowns: Sew One For Your Own

These are a few of the most popular wedding gown styles to walk through a church or movie setting. Dating from the 1950's, they have style and grace. Designing and sewing a wedding gown is fun, yet daunting! Starting with a classic like these can help to focus on a look that has drama with a classic twist.

From Top to Bottom:

Audrey Hepburn: "Funny Face", 1957, gown by Givenchy

Grace Kelly: marriage to Prince Rainier III, of Monaco, April 1956, gown by Helen Rose

Liz Taylor: marriage to Conrad Hilton, 1950 and "Father of the Bride", 1950, gown by Helen Rose

Jacqueline Kennedy: marriage to John F. Kennedy, 1953, gown by Ann Lowe, New York

Make it Yours:

The 1950's home sewing patterns shown here are collectable and often difficult to locate. But take a close look. You may recognize the style lines in other more available gown patterns from the 1980's forward. More recently, the popular gown worn by Princess Grace has inspired variations, and several are now available from the pattern companies as listed in the lower slides.



1950's sewing patterns seen in the top slide, from left to right: McCall's 6605, Simplicity 4511, McCall's 9677.

Rudi Gernreich California Fashion Designer: early 1960s fashion designs

Early on, California fashion designer Rudi Gernreich was associated with the young fashion innovators. In these early 1960's designs, his look was clean cut, easy to wear and popped with bright contrast or graphics. The silhouettes forecast the shirt or "A" line shapes that would be widely worn later in the 1960s

These styles show that even common fabrics such as table cloth checks found new fashion meaning under his genius. Although he was working with wovens, during this time many of his designs were wool double knits for Harmon Knitwear.

Prices were above average, with the little striped Harmon Knitwear sailor dress and jacket selling for $65.

Fall 1961: Fashion Illustrations for Evening

Fall 1961, fashion illustrations by Mouchy, for an editorial on evening wear and eye makeup showing the younger point of view for that season. The pages are green, white, gold and silver with the black line illustrations.

Fashion Illustration by RBW, late 1930's or 1940's

"RBW" is the signature for Count Rene Bouet-Wilaumez whose illustrations during the 1930's through 1950's were a signature look for "Vogue" magazine. He would become popular both in advertising and editorials commissioned to support written magazine articles.

RBW used pen and ink to create the look he was known for. Often brush strokes are seen along with both color and ink washes. Like most illustrators, he used live models wearing the gowns as he worked. Hence, his textile work is gorgeous, such as the drapery seen in the illustration shown here.

Bonnie Cashin: Brass Twist Locks on Vintage Coats and Jackets

This 1970's kid skin leather short coat by Bonnie Cashin sports her signature twist locks that she adapted from canvas boat fastenings in the 1950's. This illustration is from a brochure published by Gene Burton shop on Lake Ave. in Pasadena, CA during the 1970's. From it we find that this leather coat retailed for $200 and came in white, sand, redwing red, navy, lemon yellow or sandstone.

Shown below are some examples of the twist locks used on many of her coat designs. You will also notice the extensive use of leathers in her fabrications.





Here's a peak at the inside:

California Design: An exhibit worth seeing

"California Design: 1930 - 1965: Living in a Modern Way" showcases a wide variety of furnishings, graphic arts and life-style accessories. We were happy to see more than a few great iconic fashion pieces such as this Lobster duo designed by Mary Ann De Weese for Catalina Sportswear in 1949.

If you thought this exhibition at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art was only about the Eames', you will find that to be only the tip of the design ice berg!

Lobster fashions from the collection of Esther Ginsberg, Golyester Antiques

LACMA Museum exhibition continues through June 3, 2012

Audrey Hepburn: Roman Holiday, 1953, Edith Head design

Costume sketch for Audrey Hepburn for "Roman Holiday", 1953 by Edith Head.

This ball gown always makes an impact. It's possible to re-create this look with a vintage sewing pattern. The fabric selection should have enough body to create the fuller skirt and smooth collar. Brocade, faille or heavy taffeta would create that silhouette.

Part of the beauty of this design is the overall simplicity. By looking through 1950's and 1980's era sewing patterns, similar dress styles with fitted bodices, full skirts and a bertha or portrait type of collar are available. Because 1950's vintage ball gown patterns are more difficult to locate, we are looking at 1980's styles. It may take a bit of creativity to create the collar shape, but overall, the style lines can be found.

Here are a few examples:

Butterick: 4681, Kathryn Connover



McCalls: 7395, Priscilla of Boston, 1981