1920's Flapper Coat: McCalls 7259 Archive Collection

If you've ever wanted to own a 1920's Flapper coat, then McCalls 7259, a new addition to the Archive Collection, is just what you need.  This coat pattern from a 1927 inspiration reminded me of an authentic vintage 1920's coat that I documented.  Shown below are several images of it that it might help put this new McCall's pattern into perspective, along with showing how to create a version with real 1920's style details.

Sewing a Vintage Style Wardrobe: Plaid Topcoat by Pendleton

These plaid coats date from the late 1950's and early 1960's and were made by Pendleton.  They were a yearly classic that was created in several styles and in many seasonal plaids.

It could be designed to be part of a dress set, matching a slim sheath that was worn under it. Or the plaid could be a key accent, bringing together colors from a wardrobe, so that any item worn under it had a color connection.

Matching plaids is always a problem in fit and flare or princess seamed coat styles. In looking for a current coat pattern for this simple silhouette that would lend itself to plaid, it's important to steer clear of vertical or horizontal seam lines that will need to be matched. This includes princess seam lines and other fitting seams that run from shoulder to hem. If you find a jacket with the right collar, shoulder and sleeve fit, it's possible to lengthen that down from the underarm for a full length coat. Some princess seamed coat patterns can be taped together from the hip to hem level by laying the pattern pieces together, matching the grainline, then paing them together to create a seamless coat pattern for front and back views.

In published patterns, Vogue 8841, is a lean cut coat style. It does not show buttons, so those would need to be added after checking how much overlap there is in center front. Of course, vintage patterns can be used. Keep in mind the shoulder width and armhole depth found in patterns from the mid-80's through 2000 in the least, since this coat should have a lean fit and smaller armhole than patterns from that era.

1920s Art Deco Flapper Coats: How to Dress Like a Flapper

During the 1920's, women's lives changed for ever. This was the "Roaring Twenties" and Flappers were sporting easy to wear silhouettes: loose, short, ready to take a spirited run through the park.

If you want to look like a flapper, then owning a great coat should be part of the vintage wardrobe. When dressing liker a Flapper look, key to a fun outfit is the wrap front coat and a fur collar, worn with a low cloche hat pulled down to the eyebrows.



Following World War I, everything about the Flapper's style was new and modern, breaking ground in so many ways. She was usually young: a college student or new girl in town. Her silhouette seemed shockingly masculine, with long bare legs and a slender bustline.

The idea of having men's wear styled clothing was new on the horizon. This loose fit, expressed with modern Art Deco designs brought a younger viewpoint to fashion. Erte, the famous fashion illustrator suggested many applications of Art Deco embellishments in fabric and fashion.

Fabric prints, jewelry, shoe details and hats were distinctive in their Erte-styled Deco designs.

This Art Deco Flapper coat is amazing. Over 90 years old, it still sparks with style and attitude. Erte inspired Art Deco designs are sewn on the sleeves and coat back, giving it that distinctive Flapper quality. The fabric is a rich, black mohair plush.

Not to be missed, the classic fur collar and cuffs, with a wrap front that ties at the hip.









The coat catalog here shows a very similar coat style on its cover.

p.s. The name "Flapper" is derived from the big rain boots popular during the time, that were worn un-buckled in front, making a flapping effect when the girls walked in them.

















Reposted from an earlier post; Oct. 21, 2008, with new images added of the coat.

Lilli Ann: 1950's Swing Coat

In vintage fashion, a Lilli Ann label brings to mind the San Francisco design house that specialized in drama and fashion flash. It is noted for wonderful wool coats and suits produced following WWII. Although the company history spans several decades, the late 1940's through mid-1960's era are probably the most popular eras for Lilli Ann collectors. I wanted to share one of my Lilli Ann study garments with you. It dates from the early to mid-1950's.
Probably the first thing you will notice is the sheer weight of this black wool coat. It is really heavy, in part due to the thick, lush fur blend wool that was produced in post war France for Lilli Ann. The shiny fur guard hairs produce a glimmer that is unmistakable. The silhouette for this coat is a wide 'swing' or 'A Line' cut. Its wide hem is very full, enhanced by pleats in front that fall from the neckline.

Appliqued on the wool are black velvet stripes that widen towards the hem. These chevron down the center back seam line, creating a pointed optical illusion at the hem. The stripes are wound around the coat, starting in the upper front and ending in a chevron point at back.
To compliment this 'A line' shape, the sleeves have width at the elbow and gather into narrow wrists. These are accented by deep turned back cuffs. An equally wide pilgrim collar can button to the chest.
When looking to date this coat, I found several Lilli Ann coats of the same textile. Often these have a 'fit and flare' princess seamed silhouette. These two types of coats seem to form the main silhouette selection at Lilli Ann during the early 1950's. Wide collars were popular, and are almost always part of the look. This picture group shows a Lilli Ann coat and others typical of the era.
The drafts of this coat are drawn to scale and show the coat in detail with its very wide skirt. The front pleats are also apparent in the draft, along with the placement of the velvet appliques.

I hope this great coat can be an inspiration to you. Many elements are very easily reproduced. Especially trying the chevron applique could make a 'ho hum' coat simply fabulous!
And if you collect vintage, keep your eye out. You never know where a Lilli Ann coat will be hiding!

More articles on Lilli Ann:

1940's suits

1950's and 60's suits

1950's Jackets

1980's Jacket


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