Lilli Ann: Diamond Applique Jacket, c. 1955

The Lilli Ann label carries with it an aura of mid-century feminine mystic. While photos of jackets with that label are easy to find, close up details are not often shown. This example is a well fitted short body suit jacket in a silhouette that was popular during the early and mid-1950's. I have seen similar styles with the Lilli Ann label that used the same shades of wool, so it is probably part of a suit collection that was created in the same fabric.

I wanted to share the details of this jacket, showing how the diamond appliques are applied around the hemline and at the lapel of the collar in a unique extension beyond the edge.

This front view shows placement of the diamond details, with some closer views below:

The diamonds were appliqued onto the jacket body after the darts were sewn, covering up those seam lines. The edges are held in place with zig-zag stitching.

This diamond motif is carried across the back hem as well, rather than it being just a front view element.

Finishing the details are self bound buttonholes and covered buttons (rather than rhinestones) and turn back cuffs. While these details are common for the period, the textiles used and subtle fabric arrangement lend an air of quality in the mono-chromatic color scheme of the jacket, relying on graphic design rather than shiny textiles, bright color or bling to complete the jacket's details.

P.S You can find out more about this jacket and Lilli Ann in these other blog posts

1950's Jackets that Inspire: a short intro to this jacket and how I got it.

Vintage Suits from the 1950's and early 1960's: more great suit jackets and advertisements

Lilli Ann of San Francisco: follow my Pinterest board on this label where I include dates and descriptions for the collector or enthusiast.

Lilli Ann: 1956 Suit Advertisement

In the 1950's Lilli Ann suits were available not only at major department stores, but at locally owned shops in small towns as well. This advertisement is from the spring of 1956, and shows a suit called "Carousel" with flared peplum and longer narrow skirt.

The wool worsted fabric of gray and white has polka dots available in either white or red. This illustration can help us to see that the wide peplum was a popular silhouette in 1956 for this brand. There is a double layered collar as well.

The prices for the shop's Lilli Ann outfits ranged from $69.95 to $98.50. The advertisement is quick to point out that this store requires "no money down and 20 weeks to pay, use our budget plan", this being the way women could afford expensive clothing before credit cards made that possible.

This is the 1956 magazine advertisement for this same suit. It clearly shows all of the same elements as the illustration. It also refers to the "Carousel" as being the name of this outfit, with selling price "about $100" (around $870 today). It's ads like these that can help the Lilli Ann collector to date suit styles from this company. Besides the Lilli Ann monthly photo ad in fashion magazines, small store owners would also promote the label for their shop in local newspapers. The shop that published this fashion sketch was located in a southern California town, not far from Los Angeles.

If you want to see more on Lilli Ann, then just use the 'search' box at the top of this page to get a list of my other Lilli Ann posts, I think you'll like them.

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