Sewing a Vintage Style Wardrobe: Pendleton Style Plaid Top Coat from Vintage Pattern, McCalls 7027

The Pendleton jacket that I showed in the previous post: Plaid Top Coat by Pendleton is a classic, but finding a sewing pattern in the same shape can be difficult. This vintage pattern: McCall's 7027 is exactly the style to make a look-alike coat. It dates from 1963, and even shows what is probably a plaid mohair coat on the cover.

This simple back view shows how clean and straight the silhouette was designed.

This view of the pattern pieces shows clearly how this pattern was drafted. The side seams fall straight from the underarms, with the front having a bust dart in that side seam. The center front edge is straight, so the lapel is not extended or pointed. The back is equally straight, with shoulder darts for fit. The sleeve is cut in one piece. The collar is nearly flat, with only a slight curve.

Overall, this pattern seems to be cut in similar style to a lab coat or a long shirt, and that is a possible pattern to use when drafting or creating your own pattern for this style. It might even be cut from a pajama top pattern, if the sleeve is not too baggy or low cut in the armhole.

Another thing great about this pattern is that the style can be made in so many fabrics. Imagine a denim version with contrast top stitching!

Bonnie Cashin: Mohair Blanket Coat, Up Close

This 1960's Bonnie Cashin coat for Sills was found recently by Miss A who shared it with me in an excited text message. My respose: So when do I get to see it in person!. For me, coming across a Cashin coat in a vintage or thrift store is like finding a colorful sea shell on a wide sandy beach. Eureka!

This coat has that classic Cashin silhouette: kimono sleeves attached in one with the body. This allows that bold plaid check to continue out onto the sleeves without breaking up the graphic look.

But what stops the show here is a great, dramatic cape like collar. On closer study, it seems to have been inspired by a triangle shawl shape. Imagine folding a large square wool shawl into a triangle then draping it around your shoulders, over a coat. This has that same effect.

What pushes it over the top is that this shawl collar is cut from a wildly colored double cloth: fuzzy amber, orange and red colors on the outer mohair textured side with a blinding magenta pink and red on the other smooth surfaced side. That contrast is used to its advantage with this collar design since how its worn or draped can effect whether that contrast is seen or not.

Narrow suede trim binds off all edges. The coat is not lined, so that bright pink and red side is clearly seen when worn. Like so many Cashin wool coats, this one has roomy pockets in the side seams. It was designed with a very wide hook fastening at the neckline that at one time were covered in suede. The center front would hang loose and unfastened.

I will share the inner workings of this design and the technologies she used to create the look in my next post on this great coat.

If you are interested in seeing more designs from Bonnie Cashin, you will want to check out the links below:
Bonnie Cashin Online Resource, UCLA, Biography with Photo Archive
Bonnie Cashin, my Pinterest Board (a growing collection of images)

Cashin Coat for Spring: 1966

Bonnie Cashin's vision for Spring 1966 shows her love of texture and inventive silhouettes.  This kimono inspired coat has unique angled sleeve lines, with a diagonal wrap closure that ends in an upswing hemline.  All edges are bound in leather, which would have been colored to compliment her custom wool textiles. Doesn't it have an exciting look?  I think it could be adapted and worn today, which is one of the amazing elements about a Cashin design.