Paris Buttonholes the Mode: 1930's

This fashion magazine page from the early 1930's plays up some great ways to use buttons. The slinky, slender silhouette of that era looks great with the sleeve variations shown here, some sporting button accents. Neckline and shoulder yokes, sleeve cuffs, pockets and shoulder straps have buttons as well.

Part of what makes the look so elegant is the accessories. Their gauntlet gloves really have great style. And it would be hard to miss those jaunty little hats worn at an angle over the forehead with a bit of finger waved hairstyle peeking below.

A Place in the Sun: the Prom Dress Hall of Fame

The white gown that Liz Taylor wore in 1951 for "A Place in the Sun" captured the imagination of college and high school girls everywhere. The style and silhouette would become one of the most popular prom and wedding gown looks for the decade.

This original costume illustration by Edith Head must be an early version, since the "V" waistline shown was later changed to become more conventional. When looking at the photos it is easy to see that the blossom details are carefully placed, not to overwhelm the bodice. Similar white velour (or velvet) violet blossoms are scattered all over the bouffant tulle skirt.


These two Butterick patterns: Long version #4928 and short version #5457 are excellent sewing patterns to use if you want to try making your own version in tulle layered over taffeta. It's really a very simple dress design, the blossoms scattered all over are what makes the difference!

Schiaparelli Bustle Gown

This unusual gown by Schiaparelli was designed in 1947 and shows how she draped to create drama and new silhouettes. The hem of this silk gown is shorter in front where the bodice is shirred across the waistline. In the back the hem lengthens, complimenting the puffed bustle-like bow which accents the "V" neckline.

from:
Doyle, New York: Couture and Textiles. Tuesday, November 10, 1998

Cybill Shepherd: 1960's College Style

In August, 1969, Cybill Shepherd at Hunter College, was one of several college women featured in the college issue of "Glamour" fashion magazine. Although she was on the cover, it is the editorial shots that really capture her iconic 1969 great look. These photos present the ideal look of the day, as she would wear it at that time. After this feature, she would be seen in many more magazines to come.

From a fashion perspective, everything that she is seen in here is wearable today without looking too retro or costumey. It's pretty amazing to think without making any changes, styles over 40 years old can be worn today as a current trend.

Young Innocent, 1969 by Sue Wong at Arpeja

"Young Innocent" was a junior petite label designed by young Sue Wong when she was fresh from her training at L.A. Trade Tech college. This label was under the "Arpeja" brand. Wong's designs were young, spirited and very trend conscious. These and her "Young Edwardian" designs would become iconic junior looks for that era, one of several strong junior brands being developed in Los Angeles at that time.

These illustrations show the strong design influence of Peter Max during during the late 1960's. Sort of 'trippy' in style, with elements of the 1920's illustrator John Held, the figures create a great look that identified that brand from others at the time.

Louella Ballerino: early 1940's, Mexican Design Influences

This jacket and skirt was designed in 1942 by Louella Ballerino. She mixed applied rows of ribbon, metallic braid and colored fabric bands on black rayon faille background on a dirndl skirt. The prim fitted jacket with notched front peplum was worn over the gypsy style skirt.

She was a strong influence in the adaption of ethnic garments and textiles into popular fashion, and this outfit is a good example of that look. Recently there have been several strong trends in color blocking that seem to be inspired by her designs. In looking at this, it is easy to imagine wearing a similar skirt today.

A press release for Holiday, Winter of 1944 gives us the more information about her collections at this time. During the 1940's she was influenced by Mexican design and themes. Ms. Ballerino gathered her inspiration from trips she made to Mexico, collecting textiles, garments and samples of embroidery that she would later use in her designs.

At the time she was known for using ribbon motifs in her fashions. Bright and casual, these were often sporty, leisure wear ensembles that could make the transition between day and night. They were worn for evenings at home, dinner parties, and dancing.

To create these designs she used bengaline, usually in black. This was a shiny, ribbed textile of rayon with a moderate weight and crisp hand. Her ribbons were as narrow as 1/4", and ranged up to 6" wide. The ribbon colors were bright; fuchsia, blue-green, lime and other tropical colors. The colors were given more emphasis by the black bengaline background.

Bodice silhouettes were designed in off-the shoulder blouses of the same bengaline or a long slender tops with a basque or peplum bottom worn over that gathers of a dirndl skirt. It could have long loose sleeves. Some tops had horizontal ribbon work as well.

Gathered dirndl skirts were a signature for her. Normally during this era, women wore "A" line or nearly bias skirts with less fullness. She also included black pants with the ribbon group. Other lines she designed during this time would have matching bra tops worn with culotte shorts and jackets to go over the bra, along with peasant type blouses. These all contributed to the casual outdoor lifestyle that California was marketing at the time. They were looks that were seen across the country, sold in better department stores. It was a great time for American fashion design.

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This dress is currently on display at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.
Information on the exhibit is HERE.

Facts: HERE
Jacket Center back = 17.5" long
Skirt Center back = 43" long

Retro Style Shoes: 1940's Sandals for Summer

If you are looking for the perfect 1940's and 50's summer wedgie sandal, then look no further. Hand made in Mexico, these tooled leather wedgies are super cute and comfortable enough to wear all summer. They are available in several colors, from red through natural, black and brown. If you are on the west coast, you may have an easier time finding a pair, but online there are several websites that carry this fabulous sandal.




Red shoes shown are from HERE

Natural shoes are from HERE

If you are in Los Angeles, visit Olvera Street to find them HERE among the stalls down the center of the street. I found mine in a stall with many other styles of sandals.

Lilli Ann: Purple Suit, Illustration from late 1940's

Post WWII, Late 1940's, "Lilli Ann" label vintage fashion advertisement, showing the peplum jacket and dramatic silhouette that the San Francisco company was famous for.

Lilli Ann suit: Fashion Illustration from 1947 Advertisement

A Lilli Ann suit fashion illustration advertisement from 1947 .  This is one of a few illustrations for Lilli Ann that was launched after World War II.  It was short term, apparently the brand favored fashion photos.
Don't you just love the sophistication?
Were women really this romantic and men that dashing?