Vintage Fashion: Books to Collect, a Review

Review of Books on Vintage Fashion or Costume History

A World of Costumes in Cutout
Hello Gorgeous!
70's Fashion Fiascos
Encyclopedia of World Costume
Dressing the Part
History of Costume
Fashion: The Changing Shape of Fashion Through the Years

If you read this blog, you probably have more than a passing interest in vintage fashion or costume history. Collecting a good library of books is essential for inspiration, dating, and general research into fashion eras. The following books are a few good ones. Some are recent publications, one is over 50 years old. They all 'stand up' to the test: nice to look at, with good information.


A World of Costume in Cutout is colorful and well illustrated. This paperback book is designed to be cut up and made into standing paper dolls arranged in scenic rooms. The fashion illustrations show historical examples in gorgeous color, making it hard to even think of cutting up this book's pages.


Hello Gorgeous is a tiny book, packed with terrific full color beauty ads from the 1940's, 1950's and 1960's. It is a great resource for graphic artists, fashion historians and those who love vintage fashion or want to re-create their own vintage look in hair and makeup.


70s Fashion Fiascos is full of great color photos from apparel catalogs of the 1970's. This includes shoes and other accessories, as well as amazing photos of men's wear during that decade (did they really look like that?). Whether you collect or wear vintage, design fashion or costumes, this little book is a must for your bookshelf.


Encyclopedia of World Costume is an excellent book to use when looking for ideas, dating something, designing costume or fashion. The illustrations are line drawings with lots of great details. If you ever watched a movie and wondered about the costume era, this book will help you find that information. It is arranged by alphabetic topic, rather than historical order.


Dressing the Part was published in 1950 as a revision to a 1938 costume history book. It has excellent information on historical costume for the costume designer, with special references on the era itself. The early 20th century section is a first hand account. It is illustrated with black line drawings, a reminder of the days when every costumer had to sketch her own drawings by hand. The author was the costumer at the famed Pasadena Playhouse during its golden years, so this is a sought after volume.


History of Costume was for many generations of costumers their bible. It has gorgeous line drawings, with occasional black and white photos of actual garments of the period. Collect this and you will have one of the best respected books on historical costume available.

Fashion, The Changing Shape of Fashion Through the Years:
Published in the 1970's, this book is illustrated with color and black and white photos, many from the 60's and 70's. Original paintings from historical eras are included, which give excellent examples of how fashion was worn by real people. This is a great book for anyone who wants to build their understanding of historical fashion: costumer, fashion designer or vintage fashion collector.



BOOK LIST

A World of Costumes in Cutout, Lowndes and Kailer

Hello Gorgeous, Rachel C. Weingarten

70's Fashion Fiascos, Maureen Valdes Marsh

Encyclopedia of World Costume, Doreen Yarwood

Dressing the Part, Fairfax Proudfit Walkup

History of Costume, Blanche Payne

Fashion: The Changing Shape of Fashion Through the Years, Jane Dorner

Sew Classic: 1970's Vintage Sewing Books

Book Reviews:
Complete Guide to Sewing by Reader's Digest
The Vogue Sewing Book
Sewing Book by Better Homes and Gardens



How-to-sew books fall into a wide range of types, from those that cover project based sewing instructions, to specific tips on sewing. Probably the book with the widest coverage of sewing instructions and techniques is the Guide to Sewing by Reader's Digest. With excellent detailed drawings that show step-by-step instructions in nearly every type of sewing application, this is perhaps the best encyclopedia to refer to as you sew. The older editions are best, and can be found from the 1970's and 1980's. The version we show is dates from 1976. It has 410 pages on fashion sewing for women, men and children. This is followed by 74 pages of home dec. techniques and projects. Craft projects fill the final chapter.



Fashion sewing was defined for decades by the Vogue Sewing books in several editions. This thick, 464 page volume is full of suggestions and step-by-step instructions for better dressmaking as defined in the 1970's. Today it provides great insight into fashion sewing, with many methods that are common to dress design. It also includes a men's wear section with tailoring instructions.



The Better Homes and Gardens Sewing Book is a fun take on the sewing manual, as it has a ring binder style cover. This book was written for the home sewer, and contains many tips for family sewing and sewing crafts. If you sew vintage, the dresses you are making are probably shown in this simple but complete manual. It is arranged by topic, much like a cookbook.

Complete Guide to Sewing, Reader's Digest, 1976

The Vogue Sewing Book, Revised Edition, 1973

Sewing Book, Better Homes and Gardens, 1970

Betty Jackson: Designs that Influence, 1980's Fashion Icon

Origins of Steam Punk and the appreciation of Victorian fashion design are a special niche for English designers. When I look back into the 1980's, the roots of steam punk become more clear to me. One British fashion icon I like is Betty Jackson. Her romantic visions with Victorian influences helped to integrate vintage into popular trends both then and now.


She has an attention to detail brings in many levels of visual interest: frock coats, vests, neckties, white collars and other menswear details infuse her fashions with quaint details. Not to draw exactly from 1800's menswear, but to borrow off the hanger and style it in a new way, these designs present options we can use today, especially when working with vintage or designing new concepts.


Accessories play an important in finishing the ensemble, and her we can see adorable bowler hats, gloves and parasols for sudden showers. Tweeking this to be less costumey, there are ideas here that are showing up in the current fall fashion collections. This is a far more vintage look than we have seen in recent years. The new designs tend to bridge the gap between full Victorian or Steam Punk costume and contemporary street wear. Making a choice that is wearable, yet fun, you can reference the Victorian era without going there full steam ahead.


As a designer, Betty Jackson won the annual British Fashion Award in 1985. The fashions you see pictured here come from 1988. She had launched her own company in 1981, after a decade of experience with such British design icons as Ossie Clark. She is still designing today and has some references in her current collection to the earlier designs.

If you wear or collect vintage, or design, these 1988 outfits may give you some new ideas. Pairing older pieces with current fashions with a point of view that refers to a Victorian sense of design is always in fashion.

Interview with Betty Jackson

Lilli Ann: into the 1980's

The hey day of Lilli Ann was followed by over a decade of suits and jackets that attempted to retain the status of that brand. However, most of the apparel lacked the original drama of earlier suitings created in the 1940's and 50's. This polyester jacket from the 1980's comes from the declining years of that company. But it seems to draw from past styles with bold geometric color blocking, something we expect in a 1950's suit jacket from Lilli Ann.

This jacket sports some fun details such as applied trim to accent the color areas. It applies a balance that would flatter the wearer, emphasizing wide shoulders, narrow waistline and shapely hips.

A few years later, this well known San Francisco brand would close forever.

Lilli Ann: 1950's Jackets that Inspire

If the Lilli Ann company during the 1940's and 1950's is known for anything, it is their fearless use of eye popping details and dramatic flare for contrasting trims. These two lovely wool jackets from the 1950's are examples of how far jacket design can go.

The lavander wool crepe jacket has a swag of drapery that falls to a pom-pom of fur at the end! This is accentuated by a diagonal hemline around the jacket. It appears to move on it's own with the swing and swirl of this design. The drape with fur trim seems to be a popular Lilli Ann trim, and it can be found in other jackets as well.

The second slide shows an early tailored silhouette that is spiked with diamond shaped appliques of the same wool in various shades. These are zig-zagged onto the jacket, around the hips and at the collar points. In fact, the collar diamonds overlap into 'space' and aren't entirely bonded to the jacket structure. This style is part of a line, having seen one go up on Ebay recently, I know that the diamond appliques were used in more than one style.

Plain tailored jackets from today might take note of these two looks. Wouldn't it be fun to re-style a jacket with diamond appliques? Or a swag? Don't let plain jackets fool you, there is a wealth of possibilities, if only someone would try!

(To get a closer look, click on the image)

NOTE:
Both garments were found at Etsy in forward thinking shops who recongnized the glory of a Lilli Ann jacket, even though it might be spiked with moth holes to the point that it can't be worn. Keeping them for study and inspiration is a perfect way to use such unwearables.

top photo: lavander wool crepe with fur trim and rhinestone button, c. 1955, from Fabgabs on Etsy.com
second photo: tan wool with diamond applique trim, c. 1950, from Vintagekttn on Etsy.com

Vintage Fashion for Curvey Women: Large Sizes Do Come in Vintage Too!

Abstract Print Sheath, late 1950's - mid-1960's

The February issue of "V" fashion magazine features "size", with a much publicized viewing of large size models wearing current fashion trends.

Oddly, when it comes to vintage, most people assume that the entire population prior to 1980 was tiny and slender, without curves or any additional body padding. To the contrary, sizes for larger vintage lovers are there if you seek them out.

Shift in Tidepool patterned fabric: late 1960's

Shift in Red/White/Blue print: mid to late 1960's (sold)

It's my belief that large size vintage fashion is scarce because those sizes are in demand.
Rather than being few and far between, the size range sells quickly. Another factor may be that vintage fashion has been in and out of popularity since the late 1960's, so that some garments are just plain worn out and no longer in circulation.

Fitted Sheath in White Gold Brocade: late 1950's through mid-1960's

Don't let these photos fool you, these are large size fashions, pinned onto a whisp of a figure to show them.

Tiki Floral Luau Sarong: 1970's (sold)

Teal Blue Crystal Pleated Dress: late 1970's

Some of these great fashions are currently for sale on Etsy. Others have been sold or are waiting their turn to be listed for sale in the future.

Chiffon Knit Boho Peasant Dress: 1970's

Lace Dress by Gloria Swanson: early 1950's (sold)

If you are looking for large size vintage, check PintuckStyle on Etsy often, since these great styles sell fast!

1950's Fashion Illustrations

Dramatic strokes in black create impact and visual texture in these magazine illustrations for several Simplicity sewing patterns from the mid 1950's.

Deep black strokes of what is probably charcoal are seen on a textured paper that make for a high energy composition with rough lines. In creating the illustrations, the artist developed the color areas first, probably using opaque gouache, a water soluble paint.  Details were left out in the high light areas so that the overall effect wouldn't be flat or even.  The body and face are colorless as well, giving the garment full focus in the layout.  Over this first layer of color, black strokes were then applied.  Finer ink lines from a pen then detail the faces and garment structure.

 

This illustration technique is developed from a well defined primary illustration that is layered under the top illustration paper, creating a guide for the artist to use as the color, then black lines are applied. Often a light table is required so that a thicker, more textured illustration paper can be used for the final work.

Today fashion illustrators often use markers and marker paper, layering their primary sketch under the marker paper.  It would be used as a guide when applying marker ink strokes to the top layer of marker paper.

 

I thought it might be interesting to compare the first illustrations to these simple yet stylish versions of the same garments.  They are illustrations from the original pattern envelopes.  You can see how these versions are very simple, with clearly shown details and garment seam lines. 

 

But even so, the green shirt waist dress (Simplicity 3848) does present an 'attitude' and bring style to the garment presentation.  The more simple red candy striped dress in the first example (Simplicity 3857) uses a quick repeat of the figure stance for the second figure which allows that illustrator to 'whip' out the illustration quickly.  The white blouse in that illustration is shaded with an india ink wash (black ink, diluted to grey with water). 

The dark green sheer shirtwaist in the lower illustration also uses a wash, this time water color or gouache is diluted with water so that it appears light and sheer like the fabric.  In the first set of illustrations, the magazine illustrator presented a more dramatic interpretation of this dress, with bold red gathers and a the bodice lining that is clearly defined.

Envelope illustrations provided the backbone of the pattern industry throughout the 1950's.  Inspiring to their readership, more dramatic illustrations gave a woman's magazine the opportunity to suppliment expensive fashion photography with dreamy illustrations for their readers to view. 

Since I posted this popular article, I have added more fashion illustrations from the 1950's. You may want to check these out as well:
Cocktail dresses, 1958
Back Views of cocktail dresses, 1958
Dagmar, the illustrator
Count Rene Bouet-Willaumez (RBW)

Fashion and Fabrics: Sewing Vintage Styles from the 1960s

The image above from the early 1960's illustrates how a girl could plan her wardrobe around a single sewing pattern or style, just by using assorted fabrics and accessories.  Getting mileage out of a simple, classic silhouette was seen in many features of that time.  These examples are great ways to find inspiration today when sewing, and to help date an outfit from the early 1960's by the garment cut, silhouette, fabric and trim.

Taking simple trims, like the lace motifs shown here was popular throughout the 60's.  With only a simple sheath, a great fashion statement can be created.   These spring and summer looks sport crisp linen fabrics with sharp white lace applique and linear trim texture for an 'icing' effect.

 These fun looks are part of a 2 dart shift or 4 dart bodice dress designs.  The placement of linear applique was selected to elongate the figure and add slimming lines to looser styles.  These easy to sew silhouettes were the backbone of any girl's wardrobe--a "make it in one day" styles. 

When looking for vintage patterns, those new to sewing should seek out these styles.  They often have great instructions, which can be used with a good sewing manual to create great outfits more easily. For advanced sewing projects, upgrade the textiles, lining and trims for a sophisticated style that can be easily altered for a perfect fit. 

The pattern styles shown above may seem vintage, but they can be found currently in modern sewing patterns that have a more current fit with a wider range in sizes.  The following patterns are currently available in the Butterick catalog.  Pattern  5746 is a classic darted bodice with fitted skirt (you add the sash).   This pattern can also be used to create a perfect fit body pattern, which is something you may want to have if you sew from vintage patterns and need to make alterations.  Patterns 5277  and 5407 are also darted, but without waistline seam, and the addition of cap sleeves.  Other fitted sheath dresses can be found in  Butterick 4386 and 5235.  These have both bust and torso darts for a slender fit. A classic shift silhouette is Butterick 3880, that has a bustline dart for upper body fit.  Looser shift styles without darts can be found in Butterick 5211, and 5269.

You will find cool fabrics from the vintage sellers on Etsy and my own online vintage sewing shop: Pintuck Sew.  Drop by, you may find the inspiration to sew up a quick dress!

illustrations are from: Better Homes and Gardens Sewing Book: 1961 and 1970.

 

Bonnie Cashin: Turn locks

Bonnie Cashin turn locks are enough to make you want fall weather year round. There's something in that nifty brass setting that really gives her luxurious jackets and coats a bit of down to earth practicality. I can't begin to imagine the "Eureka" moment when she realized she could apply them to her jackets, after seeing the twist locks in a more utilitarian application.

Soft pastel suede? Sounds nice, now pop in a twist lock. It's better than a button any day. Zipper? you ask. That's an abutted front seam, but our dear twist locks allow us our overlapped front closure. Casual and elegant at the same time.

Signature loopy wool with leather binding frames a brass twister at the neckline. It seems so logical, this industrial fastening. Without it, we would have gotten bored years ago.

Now you get the picture! Sporty and simple, with a twist of fun. How brilliant, how logical. A master invention for the 20th century.


All Bonnie Cashin jackets featured are part of a private collection and are not offered for sale.
This is the first part of a series on the 20th century American fashion designer, Bonnie Cashin.
Please do not reprint these images without prior permission, thank you.