Sunday, March 7, 2010

Vintage Jacket: Sew Your Own Couture Jacket

This Vogue Pattern by Claire Shaeffer has the potential to sew up into your own vintage inspired couture jacket. Sewing a jacket is a great project for someone who is learning to sew fashion and wants to advance or those with more experience.

The front view has simple darts to fit, with a smooth peplum 'skirt'. That would be easy enough to fit and sew. By working with the main design elements, it would be possible to venture into a more dramatic look. Consider yourself a fledgling Adrian: Slant the buttons to follow that diagonal front closure. Alter the pattern with a cut and spread technique on the back peplum to create a half circle. That is how my own Adrian is styled in back, so you would be creating something spectacular too.

Consider using this pattern to make a wedding jacket. It would be perfect over a bias slip style wedding dress for the ceremony or outdoor reception.

There is a novel diamond cut-out in front. It could be 'filled' with a contrast tone or color for visual interest, or the diagonal edge in front could be cut in one with the neckline, eliminating that detail entirely. For a more feminine style, try the front peplum without the welt pockets for a smoother look.

The shoulders have an early 1950's roll to them, with a more rounded kimono cut in the back view. The one piece back has a gorgeous look, and captures a true vintage style we don't see often in tailored jacket patterns.

This jacket lends itself to wool crepe and other fine wools, although would be interesting to work in silk crepe or faille. Don't let the 'hair canvas' interfacing requirement scare you off this pattern. Fusible tricot interfacing would create a great look with less trouble.

If you go the route of using a lighter weight fashion fabric, just be sure your lining is soft as well. Avoid fit problems by whipping up a muslin fit garment first. Consider it good practice in getting to know the pattern. If you do that, the final garment should sew up much more quickly, since you won't need to stop and do any problem solving.

Vogue 8621, (currently marked on sale)

1 comment:

Lizzie said...

That's a really great jacket. I know that Claire is very much influenced by her study of vintage clothes. It's nice seeing that reflected in the patterns she designs.