Saturday, August 29, 2009

What Nature can Look Like

Hot August Day in So Cal,
My childhood memories has visions of hot summers and burning mountains.

Was always thus.....

How to Clean and Press Vintage Clothing

How to Clean and Press Cotton, Linen and Rayon fashions is something that every vintage lover should master. Ironing was a skill most young girls learned as late as the 1980's, but once casual wear, polyester and Lycra fabrics dominated the wardrobe,this technique became unnecessary.

The following suggestions should help anyone wash, iron or press their fashions, along with some tips for wear. Please note that no technique is fool proof. Some fabrics and garments may appear washable, such as the blue 1950's dress above, but are not. It is important to learn how to identify delicate garments. Even so, some fashions will 'fail' when cleaned, and may not be salvageable. Select garments carefully, and learn how to work with vintage. It is worth the effort!

Vintage fashions can become very wrinkled after washing or wearing. Knowing how to keep those wrinkles under control can help maintain the garment's good looks.

Garments with tailoring or delicate details should be dry cleaned, but simple dresses are often washable. Test a bit of fabric first. Avoid washing dark colors or shiny rayons (these tips are for the linen-looking rayons). Also avoid washing garments with loose or raveling seam allowances inside the garment. It is also important to identify the lining, and may be easier to send lined garments to be dry cleaned.

Whites were traditionally washed, and were often called 'wash dresses' in the early decades of the 20th century. Some vintage garments are not color fast, and contrast details such as bias trim, braid, ribbons and stitching may run or bleed into the main fabric. Avoid washing these, and use dry cleaning instead.

Cold water and baby shampoo will make a good wash for natural fabrics. Rinse out the soap after hand washing, and hang the wet garment up to drip dry (try your shower head as a hanging 'rack'). You may find it easiest to wash in a bowl or bucket in your bath tub, then hand the dripping wet dress there.

If using a washing machine, select a gentle cycle and cold water. You may want to test your machine first with a simple garment to be certain that the agitation is not too rough on the fabric and seams. You also may want to pull it out before the spin cycle, as that can wring it with many tight wrinkles. If you want a damp garment, try rolling it in a big beach towel and pressing out the water.

Press natural fibers while they are damp. This might be towards the end of the hang dry period. If that is not possible, use a spray bottle with water to completely dampen the fabric again. The skirt on the brown print Mad Men era dress above was pressed from the inside for a smooth look.

Spray bottle:
Dampen the entire garment and let is sit to absorb the water. You can also use the spray bottle to dampen specific areas that need pressing. To start, press from the inside of the garment first. This will prevent shiny areas of the good side of the outfit at hems and facings.

Flip to the good side of the garment for details such as collars, bows and tucks. You may want to 'spritz' the fabric damp again before pressing these areas. Prevent shine by using a press cloth.

Press cloth:
A linen tea towel or heavy linen handkerchief is a good press cloth. This is usually placed over the area before pressing, to prevent the iron from touching the fashion fabric. The 1950's cotton plaid dress above used a press cloth to keep it clean while we pressed. Press cloths can be soaked in water and laid damp over a stubborn area. When applying the iron, clouds of hot steam may occur, which can burn if you aren't careful. Damp press cloths will be best on thick areas as well.

When the garment has been pressed, it may still be damp. Hang on a padded hanger to dry completely. A regular hanger with a towel folded over the top like a shawl makes a great padded hanger for damp garments. If you have a shaded area outside, that may help the drying process. Keep colored fabrics out of direct sunlight (try hanging from under a patio umbrella).

Body heat can wrinkle these fabrics very easily. It is recommended that a full length slip be worn as a layer between the dress and body. If a linen garment is tightly fitting, traditional foundation garments are important. Correct under garments are very crucial when wearing fashions designed before about 1965. Getting a close fit will require a girdle (or Spanks) and a sleek fitting bra or bustier. Wearing these under garments will prevent most waistline and hip wrinkles.

Hang your dress immediately after wearing. It used to be common to hang a dress outside the closet overnight, before re-hanging in a closed closet. A padded hanger will keep many stress wrinkles from developing. Very special dresses may do well on a shaped 1/2 body used for displays. This female form has only the front half of the body, but the shoulder and bustline shaping help soft dresses keep their shape. The navy 1940's style dress above would be a good style to hang on a padded hanger or form.

Keep your storage dark, dry, cool (think: Egyptian pyramids).
Prevent: moths and bugs, dust, mildew, and other weather problems.

Flat: some items will store better flat, than hung. Sure, you may have to iron before wearing, but keeping shoulders and bodices from stretching is worth the effort.

Wednesday, August 26, 2009

CPSIA: recent TEXTILE and YARN information: Children's Apparel lead testing

I recently received an email from the California Fashion Association, the regional authority for all things 'fashion' and apparel related in California. This article on the CPSC ruling regarding lead in textiles and yarns is important news for all creative businesses who produce for the children's market. The following information is is a complete quote, to avoid any mis-information or errors:

The Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) has voted to exempt textiles from the lead testing and certification requirements for children's products covered by the Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act (CPSIA). The exemption becomes effective within the next few days.

However, the CPSIA says that while fabric and yarn does not now need to be tested, the snaps, buttons, zippers found in a garment are not part of this rule - which means the final article of clothing still needs to be tested.

The CPSIA legislation aims to improve the safety of children's products - and in particular protect children from poisoning - by limiting the amount of lead and phthalates (chemicals commonly found in plastics) found in a range of items, including apparel and footwear, on sale in the US.

Last week the maximum allowable total lead content of items for children aged 12 and under fell by half to 300 parts per million (ppm). The allowable lead content falls again on August 14 2011, to 100 ppm.

The textile and apparel industry had long argued that testing fabric and fibers did not make sense, placed an unproductive burden on them, and required safe products to undergo costly or unnecessary testing.

The CPSIA says it reached its decision on fabrics and dyes after studying hundreds of test reports and analyses that examined lead levels in various textile and apparel products.

"After reviewing and verifying this test data, the staff was able to determine that most textile products are manufactured using processes that do not introduce lead or result in an end product that would exceed the CPSIA's lead limits," it said.

For a listing of specific natural and manufactured fibers declared exempt from the lead laws, please contact the CFA office.

This post is a direct quote from a recent email sent by:
California Fashion Association

CPSIA "Lead Testing' Update:
Fabric and yarn exempt from CPSC lead testing rules

This apparel industry organization may be reached at:
California Fashion Association | 444 South Flower Street | 34th Floor | Los Angeles
| CA | 90071

Wednesday, August 19, 2009

Living with Vintage & My Favorite Things: the vintage home

Living with vintage around the house can take on so many different expressions. The views here are of places in my home where the texture, color and shape of small little things remind me of special people and places I have been.

Sometimes it only takes a few bits of color with a favorite treasure. An old paper flower and an antique mirror can bring about a visual treat that makes us stop in the rush of a busy day.

Tuesday, August 18, 2009

Vintage 1970's Long Dresses, go for the MAXI look

When is a long dress not glamorous?
One of the best eras for full length in the 20th century was during the 1970's when hemlines fell. While daytime dresses may have been mini then, wearing pants took over in a big way. For special events and leisure, long length dresses such as the soft version shown above were the perfect choice for creating a dramatic entrance.

Spinning off from the boho hippie looks, long dresses became more refined and sexy as the decade progressed, sporting cut away halters and strappy necklines. Creative draping using popular knits made for looks that were influenced by the 1930's and 1940's. This pink knit dress has a great geometric focus to the draped bodice.

Bias cut silhouettes of Harlow and Kate Hepburn were popular, but produced instead in printed or solid colored Qiana and tricot knits like the brush print dress above.

At the end of the 1970's decade, Halston infused fashion with a strong sensibility towards liquid drapery and body conscious fit with a Grecian style. If you are seeking fashion that is sexy, sophisticated and show stopping, this is the look to find. You won't be disappointed!

Friday, August 7, 2009

Lilli Ann Suits: the late 1940's, Vintage Suits with Fashion Flare

Popular vintage fashion, Lilli Ann suits from the 1940’s show style trends of that era. Fitted waistlines and peplums to the hip level were part of most jacket silhouettes. Jackets could sport double breasted buttons with wide bishop sleeves. Other suits were styled with tie belts or sashed like belted tunics.

Wide skirted coats with buttons down the full length of the back were seen, a men’s wear inspiration from the 1800’s. Wide flared peplum jackets that stood away from a narrow mid-calf length skirt grew in popularity.

Fur was often used to trim jackets. Wide sleeves of fur are shown worn with a slender skirt. $50 to $60 was an average suit price during the mid-1940’s.

After WWII, some ads show Lilli Ann suits being worn for weddings, instead of a long white wedding gown. This was a popular trend at a time when the expense for a gown was considered too high, and a new suit would be a wardrobe investment. As a special part of the bride’s life, many suits from this period are with us today, well cared for and neatly stored for decades.

Schulman actively promoted Lilli Ann’s company image as being a provider of elegance and high fashion wool suitings from San Francisco. Company advertising conveys the target customer as being a perfectionist who is sophisticated and smart.

California as well as San Francisco are mentioned in many of the advertisements in the 1940’s. Drama is also promoted within these ads. During this era, buttons and trims were produced by Lidz and H. Pomerantz & Co, and are listed in the ad copy as a significant trim. Celanse acetate linings were also advertised during this time.

French (Blin and Blin) and other European wools were imported by Schulman after WWII as part of the rebuilding efforts. This fine fabric became important in his campaign to promote Lilli Ann as a luxury suit line. Suits from the wools were priced from $70 to $80.

As the post WWII ‘New Look’ took hold, the Princess style of coat became popular. Lilli Ann coats had wide shoulders and narrow waistline over a full skirt for several years. As 1950 neared, a more slender silhouette would enter the scene, replacing wide shoulders with unpadded ones. The narrowing of shoulders would introduce the slender suit, so popular during the 1950’s.

(This is the second article in a series posted on Lilli Ann. The first article was posted on July 20, 2009. )

Saturday, August 1, 2009

House Dresses: Fashion at home, cottony and cute

A stepchild of fashion, the humble house dress has been worn in one form or another for centuries. When women's fashionable gowns were silk, this was even more so. Wearing 'wash dresses' of cotton calico allowed mothers and maids to get their chores done, while wearing something cool, comfortable, and easy to launder. The sketch here is from 1928 and shows a simple to sew house dress pattern at a time when home sewing was on the upswing in a growing suburban culture.

Following World War II, a flood of changes affected fashion. The availability of fabrics, both natural and synthetic soared. Add to this the availability of the zipper. This innovation had become popular in apparel during the 1930's, but the war years put a stop to that. After the war, the zipper became a 'must have' element in all apparel. During the late 1940's and through the 1950's, zipper use was at an all time high, as women happily abandoned their buttons for the convenience of a zipper. This house dress pictured above of cotton calico sports a sweetheart neckline and pockets edged in looped trim. A long center front zipper is set between full length rows of tiny pintucks (label: Nip'N'Tuck).

House dresses changed from being softly fit to becoming more fashion aware during the 1950's and 60's. The sporty rust red version shown here is by "Swirl". This wrapped house dress has huge patch pockets embellished with large appliques of fruit, veggies and kitchen kitch. The back wraps around and snaps at the waistband for a great flexible fit.

This cute polka dot dress is by another popular label "Models Coat". Originally a cover up for fit and runway models, it has similar 'easy to wear' features as other house dresses.

As young women moved from dresses into pants for day wear during the late 1960's and 1970's, the house dress lost its position in the housewive's wardrobe. Jeans, blouses and 'T' shirts took its place to become the prefered apparel for chores and leisure activities at home.

More on House Dresses:
Fuzzy Lizzie Vintage Clothing: overview of 'Swirl' house dresses
Eda Danese: The House Dress


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